The Umbracle: A Hidden Gem in Ciutadella Park
In Ciutadella, tucked away on one side of the park that shares its name, there’s a fascinating spot: a modernist building designed by architect Josep Fontserè and built by his colleague Josep Amargós between 1883 and 1887. It’s topped with a vaulted roof made of five iron-beamed arches supported by brick pillars. The wooden ceiling lets in filtered light, mimicking the dappled lighting of a tropical jungle.
In this environment, dozens of plant species from twenty different countries thrive. They’re planted in neat rows along pathways under each of the five barrel vaults. The result is a lush garden with the atmosphere of an old museum—originally created as part of the educational mission of the 1888 Universal Exposition held in Barcelona.
A Bit of History
The Umbracle is a beautiful structure that emerged during the demilitarization and urban redevelopment of the Ciutadella area—efforts that culminated in the 1888 exposition. Interestingly, the building didn’t serve its intended purpose during the fair; instead, it was used as a venue for events and parties. After the exposition ended, the original project was completed under the direction of Amargós, who also designed the nearby Hivernacle (Greenhouse), located just over 100 meters away.
Fontserè, the designer of the Umbracle, also planned Ciutadella Park itself, as well as the old Mercat del Born (now home to El Born Centre de Cultura i Memòria). He’s one of the key figures in the transformation of Barcelona beyond its old city walls—walls that once trapped the city in poor conditions and disease—through the lens of modernist architecture. Fontserè worked with Ildefons Cerdà, who laid out some of the guiding principles (not always followed) for the city’s expansion through the Eixample. And a young Antoni Gaudí, before launching his own iconic projects like Casa Vicens, even contributed to some of Fontserè’s works.
Visiting the Umbracle in Ciutadella Park
Entry to the Umbracle is free. However, opening hours are quite limited, so it’s a good idea to check the official website in advance. The building is well connected by public transport: it’s close to train stations (Estació de França) and metro stops (Ciutadella – Vila Olímpica or Arc de Triomf), but getting there still involves a short walk through Ciutadella Park and its surroundings. For specific routes and public transport options, you can use the trip planner tool from Transports Metropolitans de Barcelona (TMB).
This review was fact-checked and updated in 2025.