Bar Canigó is like a mirage. It looks like a village casino, but it has plenty of characters. The owners have kept the marble tables, age-old columns and mirrors made murky from years of punters smoking while playing card games. Today there's no smoking allowed (except outside on the great terrace space), and the place draws a young crowd. They serve good tapas and sandwiches at good prices. It's a must in Gràcia.