Bar Mut has an ineffably Gallic feel, with its etched glass, bronze fittings, chanteuses on the sound system, and (whisper it) Paris prices. The tapas are undeniably superior, however, running from a carpaccio of sea urchin to fried eggs with foie. Other sophisticated food for the soul to look out for includes haricot beans with wild mushrooms and morcilla or poached egg with chips and chorizo sauce. In a word? Formidable.