Time Out says
This restaurant is closed.
Xavier Pellicer is one of the great Catalan chefs, and he's earned his stripes all around Catalonia: he left Àbac with two Michelin stars, and sufferend the sad and unjust collapse of Can Fabes. Outside of the pressure of the race for Michelin stars, Pellicer found his path in the consultancy for restaurants in the Tribu Woki group (Barraca, Barracuda, Carmelitas). And now with Céleri, where he's not only a consultant but also a partner, he's managed to return to the world of signature cusine in a profoundly personal way. And it's paid off: away from media pressure, Céleri has earned its first Michelin star.
Pellicer has raised a restaurant where every plate of vegetables – organic and seasonal – has an interpretation with a vegan, carnivore or marine touch. That is, each one has three derivations. Here the vegetable rules, except for a small selection of organic meats. As Pellicer says, 'Sometimes signature cuisine... is too hedonistic, and what we have to do is knock ourselves out for our customers.' Epicurus adjusts himself to his culinary values: simplicity, everyday pleasure, and support for the modest (not necessarily small). In fact, the names of the dishes are products that don't need to be dressed up: spinach, green garlic, citricu fruits, capers (which they reduce with parmesan and crunchy jowl in the two other versions).
The chef believes that sometimes you have to leave your ego aside and let the product do the talking. This sending the ego to the backseat is reflected in his megahits of the kitchen – like the green beans with potato, or the chicken breast with potatos that you just have to try, as words don't do it justice. Know that this is not your everyday traditional cooking: with the power to strip the product bare, Pellicer makes things seem simple, but in fact this takes plenty of skill and talent.
Passatge Marimon, 5
|Opening hours:||Mon-Sat 1.30pm-4pm, 8.30pm-11.30pm; Sun closed|