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The fluted columns, bronze nymphs, suspended globe lamps and wood panelling help to replicate a classic Parisian vibe, and the cornerstones of brasserie cuisine – onion soup, duck magret, tarte tatin and even crêpe suzette – are all present and correct. The imaginative Catalan dishes spliced into the menu also work, but the distinctly non-Gallic attitude towards the hastily assembled set lunch is less convincing.