Sometimes, when you find yourself in the midst of winter, eating at this seafood restaurant that specialises in rice dishes, you feel like a Japanese soldier who, decades after WWII, continues to wander armed through the jungle, convinced that you still have an empire to defend. It’s winter, it’s cold out, and the ocean view from your table isn’t very appealing, romantic or refreshing. You’re imagining other people throughout the city eating lovely stews loaded with so many calories that they’ll be able to sit out on their balconies afterward in their T-shirts. But here you are, with your seafood paella, basking in the outdoor heating. It’s a lost battle, perhaps, but it’s also a sweet and delicious defeat.