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The only way to go at El Paraguayo, and indeed at most South American restaurants, is to order a juicy steak, a bottle of good, cheap house Rioja and a bowl of piping hot yucca chips. The rest is a menu filler. As to which steak, a helpful chart walks you through the various cuts, most of them unfamiliar to European butchers; a bife de chorizo should satisfy even the most ravenous. The place itself is cosy and wood-panelled, brightened with Botero- esque oil paintings of buxom madams and their dapper admirers.