Although its location (right on the tourist route) might be a little off-putting, the tapas at Txirimiri are absolutely top of the range. For over 10 years, Inigo Albizu has devoted himself to this place, and anyone who wants to experience his marvellous tapas should drop by here at 12.30pm and 8.30pm, which is when the rather short bar fills up with over 50 delicious varieties of tapas. Of the hot tapas, chistorra sausage with a quail egg is the number-one choice. As for the cold tapas, you can’t go wrong with the exquisite prawn and leek pudding. Basque-born Albizu hates the practice imposed by tourism where you pay by counting the toothpicks, but now he’s resigned to it. 'In the Basque Country it’s a matter of trust,' he says.