Three vintage shop dummy heads stare at a revolving fruit pastille, as if hypnotised by its chewable charms. And it’s just as easy for passers-by to become entranced by Çukor, a laboratory of sugary treats run by three experts in all things sweet. Hungarian Peter Nagi, Frenchman Manuel Abraham and local Jabier Poveda argue that their artisanal candies, in all their enticing shapes and colours, have more in common with health food than the products plied by the confectionary industry. After sampling a chunky handmade fruit pastille, followed by a sliver of honey-candied ginger, we’re inclined to agree. Çukor specialises in traditional recipes from around the world, and, without flour or eggs, they make Brazilian coconut balls, liquorice to an old-fashioned Dutch recipe, Turkish 'pismaniye' and Danish 'berlingots'. The attractively restored interior invites a return visit – to stock up on sweets or, if you have the time, to learn how to make your own, at the weekend workshops run by these kings of candy.