You may have dipped into some of the neighbourhood's bars, restaurants and boutiques, but to get the true flavour of Neukölln, a gallery trip is a must. Like many other Berlin galleries, Neukölln's art galleries tend to operate on a somewhat clandestine basis, putting on exhibitions with just a couple of hours' notice and spreading the word via social media. As such, you'd be well advised to do some research and get in touch with galleries before you visit to see what's on.
Holz Kohlen Koks (Reuterstrasse 82, +49 176 7849 0695) is the workspace of Hungarian-German artist Ivan Kiss who, as well as displaying his own illuminated sculptures and installations, also opens up his modest space to fellow creatives. Don't rock up expecting oil-on-canvas, though - recent shows have included experimental soundscapes and conceptual video screenings.
Cell 63 (Allerstrasse 38, +49 30 2197 3329), meanwhile, leans towards more traditional media, focusing shows on illustration, photography, painting and sculpture. That's not to say the art on its walls is conservative - recent shows have tested the limits of tasteful art with Nazi imagery and depictions of violence and bondage.
Set on the site of a former brothel, events space LoopHole (Boddinstrasse 60) is a veritable tombola of all things artsy, playing host to everything from gigs to site-specific sculpture installations. Musical performances veer towards the experimental, so expect specs-and-cardigan types taking notes on iPads rather than pogoing louts lobbing pints.