From the ride up the 1911 elevator and into the sitting room, this is a grand place, stylish and eclectic, and a labour of love. It's filled with fine original artworks, enormous chandeliers and handsome furnishings. Some of the rooms and suites are truly palatial (one has a winter garden around the courtyard, for example). Frau Lange, the owner, goes out of her way to make guests feel at home. Truly one of the best pensions in the city.