I Due Forni

The punky staff at I Due Forni look more likely to throw you out of a club than tease your tastebuds. But in a city of cheap pizzas baked by Turks or Palestinians pretending to be Italian, the stone-oven pizza here is authentic and excellent. A bit pricier than elsewhere, a meal can still run under €10, and there are also daily pasta specials and a salad that's essentially a head of lettuce you have to chop up yourself. Its smaller, sister pizzeria is almost as good.