Kreuzberg may have lost its monopoly on the arty and the anarchic, but it remains fascinatingly diverse and seems to be staging a recovery. Neighbouring Schöneberg is quiet and mostly residential, but it does contain some great bars and cafés in its northern reaches, and is a major hub of the city's gay scene.

Kreuzberg and Schöneberg area guide
The best restaurants, cafés, bars and pubs, nightlife and things to do in Kreuzberg and Schöneberg