French food in a Lanna manor? This Mae Rim restaurant is worth the journey

There are few reasons I’d willingly brave the traffic through Mae Rim in pursuit of a good meal. Le Manoir Botanica, it turns out, is one of them.

Opening its grand hallway doors in July this year, I turned up with an invite to check it out. Now, I’m already planning my next visit. But back to the point.

To celebrate its launch, I sat down for a special tasting menu – a choose-your-own-adventure through the French classics that make up Le Manoir Botanica’s bistro offering.

Things began communally, with marinated olives, chicken mousse toast and a cheese selection landing on the table to pick at while the wine started flowing. Then came the difficult bit: choosing.

Tomato salad with Comté and croutons or escargots swimming in garlic-parsley butter? Beef bourguignon or steak frites? Crème brûlée or tarte tatin? This was unapologetically French bistro food, the sort that doesn't need tweezers or lengthy tableside explanations to make you hungry.

So, what exactly is Le Manoir Botanica?

Le Manoir Botanica is the latest project from French chef Olivier Elzer, whose career has taken him through some formidable kitchens in France and Hong Kong. For context, he led Pierre by Pierre Gagnaire when it held two Michelin stars and L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon when it held three, before going on to establish restaurants of his own.

In Mae Rim, however, the interesting part isn't how much French culinary pedigree he can squeeze onto a CV. It’s what happens when that technique meets the bountiful resources the north has to offer. 

A genuine ‘terroir to table’ dining space, the restaurant sources produce from farms, highland growers and foragers across the region, bringing local herbs, botanicals, vegetables and proteins into Elzer’s distinctly French cooking style.

And while some classics do come from further afield – think escargots à la Bourguignonne and the odd steak – northern Thailand runs through the place with a graceful air of sophistication. Local ingredients, yes, but also original teak decor, a garden overflowing with local foliage and incredible art by one of Thailand’s pioneering Impressionists. But more on that later.

What’s on the menu at Le Manoir Botanica?

My first experience was a tasting menu, essentially a greatest-hits preview of Le Bistro Français’ much larger à la carte offering. 

Past the generously served appetisers, I went for a chilled tomato soup to start, but not before a delightfully strong glass of Mollisol – a beetroot-infused vodka cocktail that hit just the right spot. It came on the recommendation of Master Sommelier Bertrand Lutaud, who oversees the wine programme, botanical cocktails, a refreshing selection of Chiang Mai craft beers and Thai spirits that sit alongside Calvados, Armagnac and vintage Cognac.

Then came the mains. Understandably, I opted for the steak frites – a perfectly grilled cut of ribeye served atop a carefully carved bone packed with the most indulgent bone marrow I’ve ever tasted. A side of tangy salad helped cut through the beautifully marbled fat, and somewhere between the pepper sauce and a bite of my fellow diner’s charcoal-grilled octopus (another absolute winner, by the way), the out-of-city drive suddenly felt rather insignificant.

By dessert, we were in full sharing mode – breaking some French dining rules, no doubt, but enjoying the Thainess in a way that only really makes sense around the table. Spoons cracked through a perfectly caramelised crème brûlée, while a tarte tatin arrived with a beautifully layered crust in place of the traditional puff pastry. Then there was the wildly indulgent chocolate tart, made with rich 70 percent Guanaja chocolate. Naturally, we tried the lot.

Art on the plate, and the walls

Perhaps the most unexpected part of the manor, though, isn't on the plate at all. Look up from your table and you’ll find over 50 paintings by Charoon Boonsuan, one of Thailand’s pioneering Impressionist artists, displayed throughout the house.

These aren't reproductions selected because they happen to match the upholstery. They’re a museum-worthy collection of his work, properly illuminated and carefully positioned alongside the interiors and greenery beyond the windows. The effect is so convincing you’d be excused for thinking the whole house was built to accommodate them.

Charoon is known for atmospheric landscapes and his use of light and colour, making his work particularly well suited to a manor surrounded by Mae Rim's greenery. And each one is for sale, if you can muster the investment.

And this is only the beginning

Le Bistro Français isn’t the only string on Le Manoir Botanica’s bow. In fact, it feels more like the estate’s relaxed first chapter.

Soon, a second and considerably more intimate restaurant will join it: an 18-seat fine-dining experience where Elzer will move beyond bistro cooking into multi-course French haute cuisine.

Outside, the gardens will sprout local botanicals and vegetables, while a small bakery and gift shop are also planned for the courtyard outhouse. The grand entrance already houses an impressive wine collection, with a bar primed for those who simply want to settle in and savour a good vintage.

But until then, Le Bistro Français gives us something we’re always happy to have: another excuse to escape the city, head into the hills and spend a few hours eating very well. 

Time Out in Partnership with Le Manoir Botanica

Le Bistro Français at Le Manoir Botanica, Mae Rim, Chiang Mai. Open Wed-Mon (closed Tuesday). Dinner service runs from 5.30-8.30pm, lunch service to begin later this year. 

Reservations, call 098 941 4149 or visit their website lemanoirbotanica.com