Chiang Dao may not be the first place you think of when it comes to fine alcohol production. Its towering mountains and backwater vibes give off more ‘moonshine’ than ‘micro-distillery’ – but hidden just outside of town is a small-batch operation that, despite very strict Thai alcohol production laws, is creating contemporary spirits that exceed all expectations.
What better way to spend a weekend than to see it for myself – from planting rice to bottling the final drop of Sonklin, their signature spirit crafted entirely from Sanpatong sticky rice. The result? A boozy, belly-laughing trip that showed me a new side of Chiang Dao where we spent days fermenting, distilling, condensing and popping corks in more ways than one.
Step one: Fermentation
Any good spirit starts with some fermentation – a bubbling, transformative process that brings that which is inside, out. The same could be said about travelling, which is why a quick soak in the Chiang Dao hot springs helped ease myself into the trip, like an overripe plum preparing to pickle.
Spirit lifted and pores open, I made my way to Choeng Doi Distillery for another, more uplifting experience – and not just because of the boozy vapour in the air.
Unlike other distilleries I’ve visited in Thailand, there were no fires burning over blackened stainless steel pots or shelves of old sticky rice bags and questionable permits collecting dust. On the contrary, it was a clean, meticulously planned operation that felt more like a gallery than a factory.
Located on a decades-old estate that grows everything from rice and sugarcane to rare vegetables, flowers and pine, Choeng Doi Distillery only received its brewing licence in 2024 – along with a strict production cap of just five horsepower.
‘This means we had to be really creative in how to distill quality spirits without exceeding our limit,’ explained Jeen Snidvongs, owner and founder of the distillery. ‘We have to use some seriously creative methods to ensure everything is above board and below limits.’
Inside, the mood is more alchemy than industry. Rice and sugarcane quietly ferment in oversized tanks while the light catches the copper stills just right – warm, glowing and, dare I say, alive. Sensors and pipes connect every which way as the base materials bubble, breathe and start their journey from harvested crop into tinctured spirit.
After tours and pleasantries were out of the way, the official process could begin. A fire lit in the nearby smokehouse turned water into steam that enveloped the pot where our ferment mix lay in waiting. Alcohol, which boils at 78.5 degrees celsius, is the first to rise, floating up and touching the copper condenser above.
Step two: Distillation
If, like me, you thought distillation was a quick boil, steam and condense kind of situation, you’d also be wrong. Once the boil starts – usually around 7am – Jeen and his partner Chanipa ‘Pam’ Sarasin keep careful watch for the next 20 hours, adjusting steam pressure and cooling pipes to gently coax the spirit through the system.
It’s a slow dance between science and instinct – a true labour of love. Thankfully, we’d lucked into a smaller batch starting at 10am, which meant we had time to duck out and explore Chiang Dao while the stills did their thing.
Our first stop took us on a short drive into the forest on a good old fashioned field trip. Not just any forest, it was a thriving community-owned preserve cared by none other than Mon Jirawan, allegedly Chiang Dao’s first PhD holder.
A native-species biologist, natural farmer and all-round local legend, she guided us through the many tangled trails and damp clearings, introducing us to indigenous herbs and wild botanicals that could turn any cocktail into a forest walk.
After a short stroll – and a few satisfying crunches of a celery-like plant stalk that would be right at home in a Bloody Mary – we arrive at a cool, clear spring flowing gently from the limestone hills. This is the very source of the water used in every bottle of Sonklin.
By this point, the spring wasn’t the only one simmering. Jeen insisted we stop by his go-to khao soi joint – a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it roadside spot that dishes a deeply spiced broth that confirmed what I already suspected: Jeen’s palate knows exactly what it’s doing.
Bellies full and spirits high, we make one final stop at the estate’s farms – just in time to join the team in sowing rice for next year’s harvest, and next year’s bottles. As we tread ankle deep in sticky mud, the stills in Choeng Doi Distillery began to bubble like a liquid organ.
Inside the column still, alcohol vapour rises, passing through a series of copper plates stacked like pancakes. Each level acts as a natural flavour filter – heavier compounds and impurities condense earlier, while lighter, more delicate aromas make it to the top. It’s like ordering an unmixed Italian soda – all the heavy flavours sit at the bottom.
Back at the distillery, Pam invites me to peer through a small window in the still, watching the bubbling rise. ‘From the farm to the still, this is where the flavour is built,’ she says. ‘Where we double distill and hone our taste profile for Sonklin.’
And just like that, a tap was turned and cold water rushed to envelop the condensation pipes. It was time to extract the alcohol.
Step three: Condensation
Condensation is the moment the magic of distillation becomes tangible – where alcohol vapour turns back into liquid and the final form of the spirit is born.
However, not all drops are created equal. The first to come through is methanol, a toxic alcohol compound that evaporates just before ethanol and must be discarded. It’s easy to see how this step can be missed by bootleggers.
Jeen shows me how to test and leaves me in charge – excitingly serious work. I dip a finger in, rub it between my palms and wait for that telltale nail polish sting. If it’s too strong, it’s too early. Definitely not for drinking.
‘You have to feel it, touch it, taste it’ he says. ‘It’s all part of understanding the process.’ We wait for the strong smells to subside and a fruiter, sweeter scent to emerge. Their signature Sonklin – which translates to hidden aroma – finally reveals itself for the first time.
Drips turn into dribbles, dribbles into pours. A quick test with the alcometer shows we’re firmly in the zone, and the tasting begins. Each sip is different, as various compounds begin to condense. It’s strong. But it’s alive. As the last drops turn from alcohol into water, the process is stopped. The fresh spirit is left to sit overnight, allowing the flavours to settle, mingle and round out.
To toast the moment (and continue the mingling) we head into Chiang Dao town for dinner and drinks at Microkosmos. With rotating taps of craft beer and a surprisingly great burger menu, it was the perfect place to keep the rhythm going, ending up with nightcaps and a game of pool at Marabai.
By the end of the night, it felt like all the alcohol I’d met that day had found its resting place – either in stainless steel tanks, or somewhere deep in my belly.
Step four: Collection
The final step of making rice spirit is, of course, the collection. But after a day of distilling and a night of nightcaps, my morning started with gathering thoughts (and pastries) at Chiang Dao’s best coffee spot, Mountanella Café.
Back at the distillery, bottling was already underway. I was eager to taste the fermented fruit of my labour, but the fresh rice spirit still needed a few months to rest and reach its full potential. Just like me, I thought.
Snapping me out of my daydream, Pam and Jeen lead me to the visitor centre to sample a few older Sonklin vintages – each glass smoother, deeper and softer than the last.
Before accidentally getting drunk once again, we decide to fill our stomachs at Velar – a real hidden gem where a delicate Japanese hot pot begins as a creamy, tonkotsu-like broth and slowly clears as it simmers. It’s comforting, surprising and an absolute must for any monsoon season Chiang Dao wanderer.
On the way back to Chiang Mai, we make one last stop at Suan Buachompoo Na Jomkiree – the Pink Lotus Garden – buy some locally produced products and enjoy a final farewell with the stoic Doi Luang Chiang Dao, seen through a sea of petals and stems before turning face and heading back to reality.
Try Sonklin for yourself
If you’re curious to experience Chiang Dao the way I did – muddy boots, misty views and a belly full of Sonklin contemporary rice spirit – head to choengdoi.com and get in touch with Jeen and Pam through their booking-only experience offering. They’ll happily show you around, share a few secrets and maybe even let you bottle a few if you’re lucky.
Alternatively, you can still get a taste of Sonklin at some of Chiang Mai’s best bars, including Continental, Brine, Bar Not Found, White Rabbit and the hidden gem North Country perched above Kiti Panit. Just keep an eye out for Sonklin on the menu, or listen out for me in the corner, recommending it to anyone within earshot.