Belén

Chiang Mai’s fine-dining scene has a new benchmark in Belén, a collaboration between local restaurateur Tao Ingudananda (Kiti Panit, Ledu) and chef Paulo Airaudo, whose restaurants collectively hold six Michelin stars. The kitchen is led by Italian executive chef Matteo Santalucia, whose résumé includes stints at The Fat Duck, Maison Pic, La Dame de Pic and Alain Ducasse. His cooking blends European precision with Japanese influences while drawing around 80 percent of its ingredients from Northern Thailand’s fields, forests and farms.

The vibe

While Belén sits within the InterContinental Chiang Mai, it feels nothing like a typical hotel restaurant. That becomes apparent the moment you step into the moody library lounge, where books, artwork and whimsical troll figurines create an atmosphere that is equal parts sophisticated and surreal. Guests begin the evening here with an amuse-bouche and a cup of Monsoon Tea before being led through a hidden door concealed behind a wall of tarot card-inspired artwork.

Beyond it lies an intimate 18-seat dining room dressed in warm woods and soft neutral tones. Ten counter seats face the open kitchen, offering a front-row view of the action as chefs take turns presenting and explaining each course.

The food

From start to finish, the cooking is exceptional. It is not only one of the best meals we have had in Chiang Mai, but one of the most memorable in Thailand.

The meal opens with a deeply savoury mushroom consommé brightened with lemon oil, before an elaborate harvest platter introduces many of the ingredients that appear throughout the menu. While the techniques lean firmly European, there is a clear sense of place in dishes such as a delicate chicken khao soi tart topped with crisp local greens.

One of the standout courses is wild-caught trevally, served in a style reminiscent of ceviche. Winter melon and a clear tomato essence lend freshness and acidity without overwhelming the fish's natural sweetness.

The duck is another highlight. Presented whole before service, it arrives perfectly cooked with young kale, onions, rich jus and a pillowy duck bao on the side. Then comes the most comforting dish of the evening, tagliolini with vin jaune, razor clams and prickly ash powder. It's luxuriously silky and packed with seafood flavour.

Desserts strike a balance between playfulness and refinement. A mango and white chocolate creation recalls the flavours of mango sticky rice, while a supplementary caviar and rum ice cream mole paired with banana chips offers a more indulgent finale. Every meal concludes with one of chef Paulo's signatures, a whimsical Star Wars-inspired whisky jelly that struck the perfect balance between bounce and chew in a gummy

The verdict

Ambitious, intimate and impressively polished, Belén feels destined to become one of Chiang Mai's most important dining destinations. If Chiang Mai is to gain a Michelin star, this is currently the restaurant most likely to earn it.

Belén. 14-course tasting menu B5,500; wine pairing B2,500.