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[title]So you've done the Doi Suthep hike, had your drinks in Nimman and now you're ready to discover your next neighbourhood gem. Well, we have a secret for you, and it’s called Sanpakoi.
If you've exhausted the obvious spots, want to get under the city's skin a little more and go where the locals go, cross the river and find a small hub of independent shops and eateries that feel like a step back in time.
And by many accounts, it genuinely is. At the centre of it all is the 90-year-old Anusarn Building – renovated and reinjected with new life by a new generation of cafés and shops that have spread outwards into the surrounding streets, making the whole area remarkably easy to wander through. Join us, as we take you on a tour of a lesser-known but very much loved communities beyond the river.
What is Sanpakoi best known for?
Two things: Anusarn Building and Sanpakoi Market. The former, a photogenic row of cafés and restaurants worth spending an afternoon in. The latter, a early morning market where those in the know flock to for warm sticky rice and first pick of the fried chicken.
Why do locals love it?
It combines old and new seamlessly. Anusarn Building was recently renovated and is now packed with really interesting independent craft, food and fashion shops, the whole area is purposefully built for wandering – one stop flowing naturally into the next and an afternoon disappearing faster than expected.
How do I get there?
Sanpakoi sits just outside the Old City walls on the eastern side, a few minutes across the Ping River from the moat. You can easily get a Grab or hop on your motorbike to get here. If you're coming from Nimman, budget around ten minutes. From the Old City it's even less. There's no single main entrance to the area – Anusarn Building on Chang Moi Road is the best landmark to aim for and everything else fans out naturally from there. Once you're in, the whole neighbourhood is walkable and compact enough that you won't need to move your vehicle between stops.
If you only do one thing?
Try the raw buffalo larb at Withilarb. Raw meat salads (larb) are true northern delicacies that often sound more daunting than they actually are – savoury, sour and spicy in all the right ways. Think of it as a sort-of Thai tartare.
Where to eat in Sanpakoi
Start with the above highlight – Withilarb. They don't do beef here so if buffalo feels like a stretch, the fish or pork versions are equally good entry points (but go for them cooked, for your own sake).
If you’re after something more familiar, Smack and Flip Burger is always a solid move, with juicy patties tucked into buttered buns. Don’t skip Shosan Ramen either, where warm broths and slurpable noodles do the job nicely.
For a market where the aunties remember every regular, Sanpakoi Market is the place to be. Prices are more than fair and the range covers everything from sticky rice sold by the kilo to hanging racks of ribs. Save room for the traditional Thai desserts – lukchup, the syrupy foi thong and roti sai mai, the sugar-spun candy wrapped in paper-thin roti that has been making a quiet comeback with younger Thais for its melt-in-your-mouth sweetness. Nearby, Hug I Tim cools things down with ice cream cones or head to Rabbit Friday Choux for crispy, buttery choux pastry filled with delicate cream.
Where to drink in Sanpakoi
Given it’s more of a daytime destination, Sanpakoi unsurprisingly has cafés for every kind of drinker. Kumbo Matcha sits tucked inside the Anusarn Building on the second floor with views across the city – smooth matcha coconut drinks and window seating that makes it the ideal stop for anyone who needs a moment away from the bustle. Flo Coffee Brewers handles the coffee side with drip, iced americanos and lattes all done well. For something more experimental, Graph Contemporary – already a favourite with locals and visitors – takes the latte in unexpected directions, combining flavours you wouldn't think to pair and making them work. And if caffeine isn't the goal, Mandala Cacao makes proper hot and iced chocolate from real cacao – deep, dark and nothing like the powdered version.
Where to shop in Sanpakoi
Thrifting in Chiang Mai is a sport and the first floor of Building A is where to play it. Rows of secondhand clothing at prices that feel almost too good – camis, midi skirts, cargo shorts and grungy tees for around B100 each – with the satisfaction of the dig built in. Also inside Anusarn you’ll find our most favourite flower shop in the city, Gumby Floristry, where bouquets of any size can be put together on the spot, a good way to treat yourself or someone else.
For Thai silk and traditional textiles, Wasin Thai Textiles carries traditional costumes that make a meaningful souvenir and showcase some of the best Thai craftsmanship in the area. Wear it the traditional way or swap the wrap skirt for jeans and you’ve got yourself a modern, everyday Thai-inspired look.
Things to do in Sanpakoi
If you time your visit for the first Sunday of the month you'll land on the Sanpakoi Street Market, where the Anusarn Building fills with booths that spill out onto the pavement outside. Live music performances and crafting workshops run alongside the usual browsing and snacking, making it one of the more community-focused markets in the city.
Nearby, Haan Studio is an art space with rotating exhibitions that consistently rewards a visit. The installations change but the innovation and quiet provocation of the work tends to stay constant. They run workshops too – worth checking ahead to see what's on before you arrive.
When to go to the Sanpakoi Street Market
While it runs regularly on the first Sunday of every month, some visits feel more special than others. During Songkran, the market steps things up with extra performances and activities – think tung-making workshops, mini water-fight zones, and even traditional ceremonies, including monks stopping by to bless vendors and stalls.
At other times of the year, especially around festivals and holidays, you might catch traditional Thai dance, small parades, Christmas trinkets and pop-up art displays. Each edition has its own mix – sometimes a loose theme, sometimes just new vendors popping up. It’s worth checking what’s on and how the zones are set up before you go.
Where to stay in Sanpakoi
Sanpakoi has a range of good options depending on what kind of stay you're after. Monder House is for the young souls who want something easy, convenient and stylish without paying for it too heavily – the bright orange exterior is hard to miss and with Belly's restaurant below hosting DJs from time to time, it's the more energetic pick.
For something more relaxed and rooted in Lanna style, Puripunn Hideaway is just minutes from Anusarn Building with a swimming pool, spa and the compact boutique feel that delivers everything you need. Or, if you prefer to keep it simple, the Bridge An Eclectic Luxotel nearby offers a more refined, fully serviced stay with its own restaurant and bar below.