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Review
Been a while since you last muddied your boots and enjoyed the novelty of non-toxic air? Cosy countryside vibes and unique Cotswoldian charm await at this traditional, bucolic bolthole. While the presentation isn’t perfect and the food is only fine, the welcome is warm, the setting is idyllic, and the location leaves you ideally placed to explore the quaintest villages of the most postcard-like portion of the English countryside.
Because one can only spend so many days in a row dealing with the constant infuriating bullshit that comes with living in a city, for which the surest antidote is a couple of nights in the Cotswolds. This storied 15th-century inn, which assumed its current guise in 2011, is located right in the middle of the region’s northern portion, hiking distance from its loveliest villages and natural beauty spots. So if you’re eager to squeeze maximum rural rejuvenation from your trip, you’d be hard pushed to find a better-located base.
Spread across a cluster of small limestone buildings, the hotel features 25 rooms plus six cottages for larger groups. Family-sized rooms (like mine) are set out across two blocks of cute, two-floor terraces, all named after Etonian boarding houses (the site was an Eton prep school in the 1920s). While old-world charm abounds, this comes at the cost of decent sound-proofing – unfortunately the family above me on my first night seemed to be adjusting to a new time zone and were presumably all wearing heavy clogs. Groggily explaining the situation at reception the next morning, I was thankfully moved to one of the upstairs rooms, where exceptionally soft bedding saw me sleep like an exhausted baby.
Design-wise, the general look of the interiors is perhaps a touch dated – dark, patterned carpets, creaky furniture and naff, bulk-bought framed prints – but that just adds to the feeling that you’ve just dropped in on the cuddly old nan you never had. And while one suspects a refurb could be not too far around the corner, the bathrooms remain in good nick, and feature forceful showers and properly fluffy towels. Some rooms even have free-standing roll-top baths for the full lord-of-the-manor experience.
The lunch/dinner menu offers a short, unadventurous list of classic pub grub – just the job for international visitors sampling their first ever fish and chips, but a little uninspiring for a weary Londoner like me. Out on the back lawn there’s also the ‘Field Kitchen’ – a name that conjures an image of a ramshackle al-fresco canteen improvising with home-grown veggies – but is in fact simply a food truck slinging bagels and flatbreads. When I visited, most things on the menu weren’t available, and what was left was served with components missing, without warning or apology. Still, breakfast – ordered from a menu of classic hot and cold options – is solid, and don’t miss a pint in the beam-strewn bar, especially if the log fire is blazing.
Functional and friendly, but not overbearing. This may have something to do with the fact that everyone seemed a little stretched, leading to long waits for bar service at busy times. Basically, expect a cheery chat as you’re led from the front desk to your room, but don’t expect a recommendation from the wine list.
Expect rural charm by the tractor-load the moment you step out of your room. A small stream babbles right through the grounds, which was shallow enough when I visited for kids to paddle in. Follow it south along a well-trodden walking path and you’ll end up 30 minutes later in Bourton on the Water, probably the quaintest Cotswolds village of them all, with several pubs, a model village and a well-rated chippy. You’ve also got Jeremy Clarkson’s Hawkstone brewery (replete with taproom) practically on your doorstep, if that’s your thing. And those are just the on-foot options: jump in the car and you’re instantly on a self-guided tour of quaint hamlets, cosy pubs and general countryside curiosities.
There’s no shortage of places to stay in the Cotswolds, and others may pack more flair and finer food than The Slaughters Country Inn. But with rooms starting at £195 a night it’s a good-value option, especially if your priority is spending some quality time with mother nature, rather than luxuriating in your room and gorging on trendy grub. You can do that back in the city, after all.
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