Nadoo is opening soon in Greater Kailash, and it’s reworking the South Indian playbook

Dosa. Just saying the word in any part of Delhi right now seems to be the spark of a hornet’s nest. But at Nadoo, which opens in the city on Saturday, March 28, benne dosa is one of the footnotes: stuffed away in the breads section of their menu. That’s because they’re more interested in presenting the rich, sinfully flavourful range of South India beyond the predictable, crowd-hyping cheat-sheets. 

Range is the point. They’ve also got Andhra, Mangalorean, Thalassery, Karnataka and more, spanning small plates, salads, mains, rice and biryani, breads, and desserts. The non-vegetarian spread covers chicken, mutton, pork, and even lobster. Rice gets its own section, with a Hot Stone Rice Pot finished live at the table. 

The Rasam of the Day – served as a single pour or a full pot for four – positions one of the South's most elemental preparations as a main event, which you don’t usually find in the North. Desserts, too, lean into regional sweets, but use enough creative licence to introduce something new. Following the same logic are the dedicated kaapi bar and cocktails.

But Nadoo stands out otherwise too

All of this is housed in near-meditative decor and low lighting, whether it’s the fountain, the bronze and ochre surroundings, or good music at a pitch that actually allows you to hear your own thoughts. 

Nadoo is entrepreneur Sahil Sambhi's tribute to his mother, and Chef Shri Bala’s menu handles this emotional weight with heft. Sahil has a track record of building restaurants with personality – Japonico, Bawri, VietNom, and Latango among them. Chef Shri Bala brings the kind of lived-in authority (and stories behind what you see on the menu) that research simply can’t replicate. 

Together, they've made something that feels like eating at someone's home, if that someone happened to be a very, very good cook who frequently collects antiquities. 

Address: Behind Savorworks, Commercial Complex, 9, Masjid Moth, Greater Kailash 3, New Delhi, Delhi 110048

How to book: Call +91 9217679217 or +91 9217499217. Reservations are mandatory!

Timings: Mon-Sun. Noon-5pm, 7pm-midnight.

Nearest metro: Greater Kailash station (Magenta Line)