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The second noisiest time of year for the otherwise silent, afternoon-napping CR Park, Bengali New Year on April 15 is the perfect opportunity to introduce yourself to the Eastern state’s cuisine in the capital. It won’t have overwhelming Durga Puja crowds at this time of year, and yet these places to eat will still likely have a festive touch in mind. And, of course, the suddenly frequent April rains in Delhi add to a certain Kolkataesque appeal. My recommendations aren’t restricted to this neighbourhood. Before you read on, a general tip: Anything with the word ‘gondhoraj’ in it is going to be good, especially if it’s in a savoury dish.
Maa Tara | Market No 2, Chittaranjan Park
My go-to, frankly. I don’t know anyone who’s been to Maa Tara and had no intention of returning. Since 1994, Manju and Satya Ranjan Dutta have been running this dhaba-style spot in the back of CR Park's second market. You’ve got trustworthy thalis, but you’ve also got an absolutely stunning kosha mangsho with luchi, aar macher kalia, doi maach, mochar ghonto, a time-tested posto, and chingri malai curry (which is the thing your Bengali friends might not get you on a first time, but you should). Get mishti doi here for dessert, but if you want a drier sweetness, it’s easy to visit Annapurna Sweet House nearby. The most endearing thing about this place, though, is their excellent crowd and table management.
Banga Bhawan (Bijoli Grill) | Hailey Road, near Mandi House
The West Bengal government's state guest house in Delhi runs its canteen through Kolkata's beloved Bijoli Grill, and it has fed homesick Bengalis for years. Service can be slow, but it’s worth the wait, especially if you order their Kolkata style biryani. Order as little as possible at a time so you can peruse their menu in detail. On Poila Baisakh, you’ll likely spot people ordering kosha mangsho with basanti pulao coupled with a fresh lime soda (how we love those saviours of weak stomachs). This is also the place to explore the simpler, more staple dishes, and one of the better ones for vegetarians: sukto, aloor dom, luchi cholar dal, et al.
6 Ballygunge Place | Eldeco Centre, Malviya Nagar
When this Kolkata institution opened its first outlet outside Bengal in late 2024, the diaspora in Delhi went into a tizzy that still goes googly-eyed every time you mention it. It’s also undoubtedly the place to choose if you’re looking for a fancy, fine-dining experience as much as for an exploration of the cuisine. The menu is researched from old cookbooks and family oral histories. Delhiites should know that here, you get ilish (or hilsa) boneless (a concession for you, really). While this place is also known for Kolkata style biryani, I honestly think they’re at their best with thalis – decadently stacked, in actually pretty-looking fine-dining cutlery – that will ensure you know why this place draws families with kids on weekends in Kolkata.
Aminia | Kalkaji, near Chittaranjan Park
Aminia is not, strictly speaking, Bengali cuisine. In Kolkata, it was founded in 1929 based on Nawabi Awadhi traditions that followed Wajid Ali Shah from Lucknow. In Delhi, though, it’s the most prominent name among the ones that vie for serious consideration in Kolkata for the best biryani: fragrant, lightly spiced, with a potato (which you better not waste). I love it here, but in Kolkata another big name unavailable in Delhi has the top spot in my heart, so I will instead tell you that whatever you end up ordering, definitely try the chaap or the chicken/mutton rezala, which does live up to the Bengali palate: cream, onion, and oil galore.
Bangla Canvas | Pocket 40, Chittaranjan Park
This is my recommendation (other than CR Park’s roadship shops and phuchka, if you’re feeling brave) for quick fried bites, especially chops of all kinds, and Bengali shorbots. The restaurant also occasionally runs a Bengali handicrafts pop-up, which means you can do your Noboborsho shopping and your eating in one go.