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Review
Deep in the recesses of Matia Mahal of Old Delhi’s Jama Masjid, in a city which used to be the bastion of the Mughal empire, you’ll still find shops and stalls and establishments selling delicacies made from recipes that can be traced back to the royal kitchens of the Red Fort.
The humble seekh kebab, today a widespread street eat in any neighbourhood of Delhi, is perfected by the shop known as Babu Bhai Kebab Wale. Babu Bhai is a one man show – he sits near the ground, fanning some smouldering coals to keep the heat going, and only massages the meat onto the skewers when you place your order. While the seekh kebab is generally known for being a little coarse in its texture (the kakori being the smooth one) the kebab served at Babu Bhai’s has the silky texture and mouthfeel of the kakori coupled with the spiced meat of the seekh.
Per usual, the kebabs are served with thinly sliced onions and a splash of chutney, and a drizzle of butter on top. If you’re keen for a roomali roti to go with them, they’ll be produced from behind the grill with a flourish.
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