Dumbo’s one of the more recent entrants on the block when it comes to the bougie sandwich scene in Delhi, but god, does it do the job well. A testament to this fact, undeniably, is in the long lines that formed outside the shop for the several months after it opened in the posh Meharchand Market in Lodhi Colony, resulting in a total sell-out a mere three hours into operations. The sandwiches were, and are, just that good.This, in full, is thanks to the owners’ staunch commitment to quality over quantity, which is why only 50 pieces of each sandwich are sold in a day. Even before operations began, they were serious about being the best in Delhi – a chef from Florence’s All’Antico Vinaio (often touted to be the best sandwich shop in the world) was flown into town for a month to teach the staff the art of making the oh-so-delicate schiacciata bread – the airier, lighter cousin of the now-humbled focaccia. The tomatoes are canned in Italy, with large tins adorning the ledges in the kitchen. There’s also a large glass-topped counter holding all the fillings they use, so you can see how fresh everything is – rocket leaves, chicken mortadella, whole black truffles, pistachio cremas, spicy nduja spreads.
The sandos are expensive, undoubtedly so, but because there’s no rival in Delhi when it comes to quality (or size), you don’t entirely mind forking out a heftier sum than usual. The Viola is slathered with incredible nduja meat, fresh creamy burrata, crisp baby arugula and slices of prosciutto. You can’t go wrong with the Tuscan Truffle either, with a creamy truffle pecorino cream, burnt garlic, mushroom fricassee, rocket leaves, stracciatella, and topped with shavings of black truffle.While they serve a more than decent selection of coffees and matchas through the day, the joint turns into a tiny bar at night, with each drink pre-made and bottled into little glass ampoules. There are only eight drinks on the bar menu, including an exciting take on the espresso martini made with the famous Bacha coffee hailing from Marrakesh, Morocco, as well as a fizzy Prosecco popsicle drink.
What they’ve spent on quality, they’ve pulled back on interiors: the shop itself is simple, minimal, and tiny, with a giant skylight and cream walls, and it feels reminiscent of simple, nondescript European eateries. The service is quick, so in you go and out you get; remember, there’s probably a line behind you.