Manish Mehrotra’s guide to the best nihari in Delhi

‘You have to earn your serving of Kallu ki nihari, there are no shortcuts,’ laughs Manish. Finding the shop requires navigating a labyrinth that’ll have you reconsidering your commitment towards dinner. The shutters go up at 5pm, and almost instantly, a crowd gathers, jostling and elbowing their way forward. ‘If you manage to score a portion, consider yourself lucky,’ he says.

Be ready for heat, both on your plate and inside the tiny shop. The tandoor is right there, making the room feel like a trial by fire. The meat is fall-apart tender, as expected. But it’s the spice that defines Kallu’s version. ‘It's strong and bold, but you really enjoy the kick,’ says Manish. 

There’s no seating here, so takeaway is your best bet. Regulars usually come prepared, carrying their own bowls or containers to get their nihari packed.

Address: 180, Chhatta Lal Mian, Behind Delite Cinema, Delhi, India

Timings: Daily. 5-6pm. 

Price: A plate of nihari’s for about ₹60. A khamiri roti for a mere ₹5. 

Haji Shabrati Nahari, near Jama Masjid, has been around since 1957. Manish still swears by it decades later. The serpentine queues outside the shop are in agreement. 

The man stirring the degh (large cooking pot) calls it barah masaale ki nihari – a twelve-spice blend served early in the morning and again from 6pm. ‘Their handmade masala is the key to their flavour and even then, they’re not trying to overpower you with spice,’ says Manish. 

What gives the nihari its silken texture is the addition of nalli (bone marrow) and magaz (goat’s brain). ‘It’s soft on the palate and you can actually taste the meat,’ Manish explains. The gravy is rich but not heavy, while the meat is cooked just enough to hold its shape before gently giving way.

Unlike many nihari joints in Old Delhi, Haji Shabrati offers a few tables where you can sit and eat.

Address: 722, Gali Haveli Azam Khan, Bazar Chitli Qabar, Jama Masjid, Old Delhi

Timings: Daily. 6am-10am, 6pm-10pm. 

Price: A full plate of nihari is priced at ₹250, half for ₹125. Rotis from ₹5-10. 

While Karim’s now has franchises all over Delhi and India, Manish thinks nothing beats the OG near Jama Masjid. It may not be as polished as the newer outlets, but the mutton nihari more than makes up for the trek to old Delhi. And thankfully, you don’t need a map or a compass to get there – the path is fairly straightforward, he jokes.

For those dodging buff nihari (available at many places in old Delhi), this is the perfect morning mutton pick-me-up. The stew comes with a spicy kick and a thin sheen of oil floating on top. ‘But don’t let that scare you,’ says Manish. ‘Just dive in and enjoy, it’s part of the charm.’

While most people stick to khamiri roti, Manish thinks nothing beats the sheermal at Karim’s. The soft, slightly sweet, pillowy bread has the power to turn an already stellar meal into a full-blown food coma. 

If your stomach has room (or if gluttony wins), Karim’s also rolls out a parade of classics, from smoky tandoori burra to perfectly charred seekh kebabs. ‘I can never resist them when I’m feeling a little indulgent,’ Manish divulges.

Address: 16, Gali Kababian, Jama Masjid, Old Delhi

Timings: Daily. 9am-1am. 

Price: A full plate of nihari’s for ₹765, half for ₹495. Rotis range from ₹60-100. 

When Manish was running modern Indian restaurant Comorin in Gurgaon’s Two Horizon Centre, he introduced Kathal Nihari, a version made with jackfruit. The dish went viral, surprising diners, and even convincing some staunch non-vegetarians to give it a try. 

It wasn’t his invention, though. A few years back, his friend and restaurateur Sumit Gulati (who runs delivery joint Call Chotu and is also behind Delhi’s beloved butter chicken spot, Gulati) served it to him for the first time.

‘When I first had it, I actually joked with Sumit, asking if he’d secretly added mutton stock,’ Manish says. ‘It was that close to the real thing.’

Inspired by him, Manish put it on Comorin's menu. ‘It had the same smoothness and the same punch of spice,’ he says. 

Address: 101, First Floor, Two Horizon Center, DLF Phase 5, Sector 43, Gurugram

Timings: Daily. Noon-midnight. 

Price: The dish, paired with a roti, comes for about ₹745.

If money’s not a bother, there’s no place better than Dum Pukht at ITC Maurya, says Manish. He does it partly for the legendary Shahi Nihari, and partly because it’s convenient even when his schedule’s tight. The whole affair is best washed down with a glass of red wine. 

‘The best thing about Dum Pukht is that you can sit back and savour the food without having to fight crowds or rush your meal,’ he admits. 

Shahi Nihari has, indeed, been the star dish at this award-winning restaurant, with raan sharing a similar fan following. The mutton stew’s simmered for hours, making it tender and practically falling off the bone. It also contains copious amounts of ghee. 

When at Dum Pukht, Manish doesn’t limit himself to the nihari. He goes the whole hog – kakori kebabs, biryani, you name it. 

Address: ITC Maurya, Sardar Patel Marg, Akhaura Block, Diplomatic Enclave, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi 

Timings: Daily. 12.30-2.45pm, 7-11.45pm. 

Price: The dish, sans roti, is for about ₹3,000.