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Review
When’s the last time you shook a tambourine in one hand and poked a spoon into your drink just to desperately scoop a damn good jamun sorbet out? In my defence, you could be next.
A faint, circular light in the distance is what first identifies Mido Social House to me, steps away from Kailash Colony’s shockingly underrated food market. By underrated, I mean not crowded – often – sometimes even on weekends. I’m immediately skeptical. For an establishment that self-proclaimably wants to make a shareable, boisterous, almost neighbourly experience out of European dining, the décor doesn’t screech at you in the way a friendly neighbourhood bar with maximalist walls would. Like, say, Nukkad would.
Incidentally, Nukkad was founded by the same person as Mido Social House: Kanishk Tuteja.
But no, Mido Social House compellingly sticks to some amount of NCR European restaurant principle. A spiral staircase and a tiny lift, that one theatrical shade of dark, sultry green pouring over both the first floor and terrace seating. Low lamp-forward lighting, crystal ashtrays, temperature-controlled water. Some amount of global posturing on the menu – pan-Asian and kebab picks, for example.
The grins and boisterousness, instead, sneak up on you. Most likely after you’ve downed a few. A DJ, popping out of nowhere late in the night, with bass-heavy hits. Tambourines, of all things, dished out like they’re hot sauce.
Do you dance?
Or do you feel a sense of loyalty to eating the pasta before it goes cold?
You might even be too busy with trying the lunar cycle-themed cocktail menu, which, actually, isn’t the gin-and-white-wine-in-a-round-glass gimme I thought it’d be.
Things stay just surprising enough around here, with something for every kind of person. Here’s what we tried.
First Quarter: Blue pea lopped over chamomile-infused gin, finished off with peach garden and tonic water. Comes with canapes on the side that almost taste equally boozy, if not more – and they retain the crunch! This one’s mild, but pleasantly thirst-quenching (and pleasant to look at). Certainly more of a summer brunch drink, despite the peaceful nap vibes those ingredients give off.
Waxing Crescent: Aperol and sparkling wine which still shy in comparison to the jamun sorbet, made in-house, that sits in the middle – it’s won both me and my drinking mate over. I can confidently say you can pair either this or the First Quarter with your main course.
Waxing Gibbous: There’s been a rise in picantes across the city endeavouring to taste like most savory food. Mido Social House calls their Waxing Gibbous a ‘clarified pizza margherita’. Unlike picantes, this is vodka-based – more specifically, parmesan cheese vodka-based, with agave and tomato and basil brine. It’s surprisingly not just a salt-and-seasoning fest, and the flavours feel well-adapted for alcohol.
Espresso Martini: We took a detour off their lunar-cycle theme (and steered clear of their very enticing shots menu), and it was worth it. It’s sweet, not too caffeine-heavy, luscious without turning out like liquified coffee jelly, but even then, potentially a dessert replacement. You know, if you want to be that person.
Third Quarter: Strawberry cheesecake in rum that’s not just sugary sweet. Comes with an actual spoon of cheesecake that more or less ensures I will order it. Smart. Worth having as a standalone.
Gold Rush: Bourbon, fresh lime juice, honey. Reliable – for certain reasons. More on the strong side, just short of the burn. Best for later in the night.
Smashed chicken pita tacos: A little on the fruity side, and nice texture; nothing to write home about.
Fish & chips: Excellent. No notes. Great tartar. Every European place needs to know their fish and chips. I’d die on that hill.
Lamb ragu pappardelle: See above, but replace ‘fish and chips’ with pasta. Possibly the best of what I’ve had here – braised red wine lamb, pecorino – with a ratio of noodle to sauce that feels like the perfect amount.
Herb crusted seabass: Soft fish in caper jalapeno sauce that comes with your usual suspects of mashed potato and boiled vegetables. Well cooked. They go great together – unsurprisingly – but I’d suggest you ramp it up with a savory cocktail.
Basque cheesecake: Delhi does cheesecake brilliantly, so we’ve got high standards to meet. But introduce basque – which has a slightly more flan-like texture and is a little less overwhelming on the sweet side – and many more places fall short. Not this one – it’s perfectly thick the way it promises. Controversial opinion, maybe, but even this could go with some vodka.
Time Out tip: Although there are several cuisine picks, stick to European. It’s what this place does best.
Nearest metro: Kailash Colony station, just a 5 minute walk away.
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