Riches’

Though Riches’ has opened in Greater Kailash III (the least boisterous of the Kailashes) there’s something about it that feels reminiscent of the unassuming poshness of Mehrauli’s upscale haunts. No, I wouldn’t ever pull the cheap trick of comparing a Delhi restaurant to Florence or Nice or anywhere else in Europe.

But it’s true that the GK III market’s recently blossomed too. Given the limited space available, the latest restaurants that have plopped down here feel luxe. Curated. Riches’ perhaps the most of the lot (though next-door bar Buttons gives it tough competition) because don’t miss the apostrophe dangling at the end. 

The space is massive. Black and white tiles polished brightly enough that you can look down and see your face gleam back at you. More chandeliers than I’ve seen in one place before. Two – two? – bars displaying the full length and breadth of the alcohol they’re about to offer me. A mezzanine level for privacy. 

But Riches’ is very much the place for a brunch or dinner in pleasant weather conditions – the outdoor space has made sure of that. It’s almost as large as the inside, offset by carefully placed seating, shrubbery, and braziers or fans (depending on the season), and is entirely fenced in so outsiders can’t peek. And no wonder – the entire place is packed, with not one chair to spare – a feat, given that I’m here for this review in the dead of Delhi’s winter. 

I’m immediately enchanted by the small plates section of the menu, which sports options for both chilled and warm appetisers (titled Cold Littles and Hot Littles). We get on with the ordering of the Umami Eclairs (cold – stuffed with scallion cream cheese and topped with smoked duck) and the Brie Pie with Hot Honey (decidedly hot – comes with chipotle pear chili jam). 

The eclair’s a good effort – nice filling and the duck is impeccable, though the pastry could’ve been a little more delicately prepared. The brie pie’s just what the doctor ordered, with the filo pastry falling pleasantly apart all over my plate. Just the right amount of honey. We have also been coaxed into ordering the Prawns Escabeche (tomatoey, spicy) which has turned out to be very nice. No complaints. 

When it comes to the drinks, the bar menu’s amusingly titled with little nods to finance bro references and corporate misdemeanours (psssttt...this is a restaurant for rich people). We kick things off with Succession (which is no more than a lightly made picante, I don’t CARE what the menu says) and Collateral Damage (cold brew, dark rum, bourbon, coffee liqueur and demerara) which makes no mention of the umami kick that they’ve pulled off very well. It also comes with an edible candy lipstick.

Two more rounds of drinks to cleanse the palate between apps and mains: Ponzi Scheme (coconut fat-washed vodka and creme de cacao) and Net Worth (apricot-infused pisco, pineapple, amaro). The former’s very coconutty and struggles in a sense to decide what flavour profile it’s going for. Net Worth is bright and cheery. A girlies’ night out drink. 

Mains are decadent here but not served in massive quantities that you’d likely waste after falling prey to the temptation of the small plates. We’ve arrived at the conclusion that we must sample something other than pasta or pizza here and order the Seared Sea Bass and Chicken Schnitzel à la Vodka. 

Service is undeniably quick. There has been, frankly speaking, not a single minute that has passed where the table has been empty. Mains have arrived just as we’re finishing the second round of cocktails. The sea bass has come skin-on – a fairly rare choice in a land-locked city – on a champagne-tobiko velouté (I appreciate the foregoing of the mashed potato). It’s perfectly cooked, tender, and the skin has retained flavour. The schnitzel is similarly delicious – and again, I must laud the ditching of the potato. Every other restaurant in Delhi does a version of schnitzel with mash and veg – but none with a vodka sauce. 

A third round of drinks accompanies the dessert (Chocolate Pot de Créme), which I fear may have totally stolen the show from dinner, mostly because it’s arrived inside of a hollowed out Romanesque bust. Last drinks include Leverage (maple fat-washed rum, banana water, vermouth, bitters), which is again…a bit so-so, and IPO (Flor de Caña, basil, black grape and agave). This last one is fizzy and purple, served in a mimosa glass. My friend comments that he would’ve downed eleven of these had we been here at brunchtime. 

I’ve got to say that dinner at Riches’ is much more an anniversary dinner-type experience than a gourmand outing. Nothing wrong with that. I dare say it’s almost a relief going to places like Riches’, where you know you’re going to be offered a trustworthy menu with reworked classics (plus the odd side quest), new-age cocktails that have ingredients you’re going to ooh-and-aah at, and a great overall vibe accented by candlelight, dim corners, and good service. It’s on the admittedly more expensive side of things, but hey, you knew that from the moment you walked in. 

The vibe: Classically romantic in the way that you know the bill’s going to be substantial. Makes you want to play footsie with your lover (especially if they’re paying). 

The food: An impressive effort has been made here to go beyond boring old pasta and pizza. Tartare, crudo, savoury eclairs. Mostly done well.

The drink: Cocktails, many of them clarified. Some of them with genuinely interesting flavour profiles, others not so much. 

Time Out tip: Sit outside.