Yyaki

Let’s admit it, duck isn’t everybody’s cup of tea, or in this case, plate of meat. When it comes to its rich flavour and high fat content, the jury is still out. Why then would a restaurant build an entire menu around duck, you ask? Because, believe it or not, duck has an intensely loyal fan base. To its connoisseurs, it’s an absolute classic, prized for its rich, savoury flavour that’s closer to steak than chicken. They love it for the thick layer of fat beneath the skin, which, when rendered right, turns deliciously crisp while keeping the meat juicy underneath. It’s definitely not for everyone. But for those who love it, a perfectly cooked duck is worth paying top dollar for.

And that’s exactly what Yyaki, billed as India’s, and possibly the world’s, first duck bar, is hedging its bet on. Conceived by restaurateur Sahil Sambhi and chef Roberto Blondi, this hyper-exclusive counter dining concept is housed inside their hugely popular Japanese restaurant and cocktail bar Japonico in Gurugram. You walk in through Japonico, already buzzing with young professionals unwinding over post-work drinks, groups of friends catching up, and families out for dinner. You then pass by the bar, slip through a set of double-height blackout curtains, and suddenly it feels like you’ve stepped into an entirely different restaurant.

Inside Yyaki

The interiors are intentionally stripped back, making sure nothing distracts from the food. The glossy mirrored ceiling is the only design element that carries over from Japonico, while an à la carte section occupies the centre with a handful of understated wooden tables and chairs. The real design highlight, though, is the series of counters framing the remaining three sides of the room. Finished with wood or textured stone on the guest side and stainless steel worktops on the chef’s side, the counters feel sleek yet functional. Cast-iron and wooden shelves display ceramic or earthen serveware, while cushioned high chairs and warm red accent lighting complete the setting. 

One counter is dedicated entirely to all things duck, while the others focus on the robata grill, teppanyaki and sushi. Behind each stands its own team of chefs, sous chefs and servers, each counter presenting a meticulously curated nine-course meal paired with either cocktails or zero-proof drinks. Limited to just six to eight seats, every counter offers diners a front-row view of the action, while allowing the chefs to interact with and give individual attention to each guest.

A highly exclusive experience

The exclusivity, in fact, begins long before you step inside Yyaki. Once you’ve booked one of its coveted seats, you’re sent a link to a short questionnaire asking for your first name, which of the four counters you’d like to be seated at, which of the fixed lunch or dinner sittings you prefer, and whether you’re opting for the full ritual of cocktail pairing or the zero-proof alternatives. Your name and photograph are then printed on a personalised menu that details every course of the meal. Waiting at your designated seat when you arrive, it doubles up as a place card during dinner and a keepsake you can take home afterwards.

Duck, duck, and more duck

I, of course, went all in for the all-duck experience, partly because I love duck and partly out of curiosity to see how they’d pull off nine courses of it, including dessert. The meal began on a high note with a welcome drink served in an earthen shot glass and an amuse-bouche of a bite-sized ‘duck sandwich’, with a delicious duck filling nestled between two shards of crispy duck skin crackling, assembled right in front of you by Chef Blondi. His sous chef then plated the first course, a Duck Parfait Tart with compressed green apple, pickled onion and hazelnut. It was an explosion of flavours in a single bite. The second course, perhaps my favourite of the evening, was a crisp Gold Duck Nugget hiding a gloriously gooey centre, finished by the chef with hollandaise, Beluga caviar and a sheet of gold leaf. Familiar yet elevated, and absolutely banging.

Chef Blondi then ladled out a soulful Chinese-style, semi-clear duck soup before shaving black truffle over it. Next came a zingy duck salad with Cantonese dressing, followed by a duck skin nigiri topped with fresh wasabi and hoisin. Around this midpoint, the meal pauses for an intermission before the richer courses arrive, giving you time to stretch your legs, step out for a smoke or simply watch the chef at the teppanyaki counter show off his effortless spatula theatrics. You’re also handed another complimentary cocktail during the break, an umami-forward Paloma with Japanese whisky, cherry and lychee.

Back at the counter, the mains arrived in quick succession: a classic BBQ duck roll smoked in front of you on the hibachi, a duck breast wrap that you assemble yourself in a crisp lettuce leaf with assorted sauces and finely slivered vegetables, and a grilled duck leg served with chilli garlic fried rice and a deeply savoury gochujang sauce. Before you know it, two hours and eight courses have flown by, and you’re onto dessert. With clarified orange gelatine, duck skin crumble and duck ice cream, it’s an unexpectedly clever study in balancing sweet with savoury, and simplicity with complexity.

The cocktails paired with each course do more than simply accompany the food. They genuinely work as palate resetters, complementing every dish without overpowering it. I kept expecting to tire of so much duck, and by the penultimate course, a little fatigue did set in. But that’s less because of the duck and more because you’ve simply eaten a lot. If anything, the menu succeeds in doing exactly what it sets out to do: explore and celebrate duck through different cuts, textures, techniques, cooking styles and presentations. Overall, it’s an experience worth bookmarking for a special occasion or the next time a serious duck craving strikes. And with three other counters offering entirely different tasting menus, Yyaki ensures you have more than one reason to go back and experience it from a different seat.