The best underrated weekend getaways from Delhi

What it is: A cantonment village perched just above Mussoorie – less crowded than its neighbour

Why we love it: Ruskin Bond still lives here for a reason, but even if you don’t happen to run into him, you really will be reminded of his work. Cobbled lanes lined with old deodar trees, a clock tower that looks like it was stolen from a British novel, and Chaar Dukaan – four little shops at a bend in the road where you eat Maggi, and watch the clouds eat the valley. (Their honey lemon ginger tea is lovely too.) Go to Landour Bakehouse for great coffee and baked goods, Emily’s Mussoorie by Rokeby Manor for stunning continental food, or Doma’s Inn for Tibetan and Chinese. And to walk it off? Well, all of Landour.

How far from Delhi: 290 km, approximately 7-8 hours by road

Nearest railway station: Dehradun (35 km), where you can catch a direct bus to Mussoorie and hike from there as well.

Where to stay: Pennington Cottage is only a kilometre from Landour Bazaar, and comes with a balcony with a gorgeous view.

What is it: A nine-cornered lake town in the Kumaon hills and the less trampled cousin of Nainital

Why we love it: The lake quite literally has nine corners, which is where the name comes from. Each corner seems to hold a different quality of light depending on when you look – but legend dictates you’re bound to not be able to cover all corners in one go. Worry not: Naukuchiatal rewards those willing to do very little. Rent a rowboat, indulge in one of several water sports on offer, and eat whatever the nearby dhaba is cooking that morning. I will say, though, that for an underrated spot, it’s got a decent number of cafes, topped off with a shopping street. The forests around it are thick with oak and rhododendron. My advice is get over scheduling this around what to do; come here to get lost and do what the morning brings.

How far from Delhi: 333 km, approx 6-7 hours by road.

Nearest railway station: Kathgodam (25-40 km away).

Where to stay: This Manipuri oak stay boasts a stripped-back A-frame cabin that gets plenty of light through the day.

What it is: A tiny village in the Tirthan Valley, deep inside the Great Himalayan National Park buffer zone

Why we love it: Admittedly one of the more rainy spots on this list (I’ve seen freezing temperatures even in late April!). If you manage to nick in right before tourist season (mid-May to June), though, it’s entirely possible to walk beside the river for an hour and not pass another traveller. Jibhi’s known for its beloved waterfall and a location that’s known locally as ‘mini-Thailand’. They also have a thriving marketplace where you’ll find shops and cafes, and quite a few viewpoints nearby like in Shoja and Raghupor Fort, where you can find gorgeous 360-degree views. Catch a hike up the mountainside and you’ll find lush green grass where hundreds of lambs roam, and authentic siddu right on top of the hill. 

How far from Delhi: 460 km, approx 10-11 hours by road

Nearest railway station: Joginder Nagar (100 km)

Where to stay: This Jungle Trails A-frame cottage is deliciously quaint, warm, and has some of the best views of the forest covering the hill.

What is it: An ancient former capital of the Kullu kingdom, home to a medieval castle and Russian mystic Nicholas Roerich's last home

Why we love it: The Naggar Castle looks out over a bend of the gorgeous Beas Valley, while the Roerich Art Gallery, housed in Roerich’s old stone cottage, holds paintings of the Himalayas that will rival even the real thing. The village has apple orchards and a 16th-century temple. It's just over 20 km from Manali, which is the kicker – Naggar’s like the calmer, older sibling with, dare I say, better bakeries. 

How far from Delhi: 540 km, approx 12-13 hours by road

Nearest railway station: Joginder Nagar (145 km)

Where to stay: Hidden inside 1.5 acres of lush green land, Izuna’s surrounded by apple orchards, and has fantastic reviews from guests who enjoyed top-notch hospitality. 

What is it: A dense deodar and oak forest wildlife sanctuary near Dalhousie

Why we love it: The Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary is the kind of forest that makes you feel… tiny. You might see black bear, Himalayan goral, or leopard, or you might see nothing except the inside of a fog bank at 2,400 metres. Frankly, that’s a large part of why safaris feel so much more… authentic? I’m not sure what the word is, maybe because words don’t befit a silent connection with nature. The Ravi river cuts through the valley below, making for a complete quick picturesque tour.

Where to stay: The Outhouse has wooden, cabin-esque rooms surrounded by pine trees, and is located in a particularly quiet part of town.

How far from Delhi: 550 km, approx 11-12 hours by road

Nearest railway station: Pathankot (80-90 km)

What it is: A small, largely unheard-of village at the edge of Jim Corbett's lesser-known western range

Why we love it: Kotabagh sits on the periphery of the Corbett landscape but without the tourist infrastructure of Ramnagar. What it has instead is an extraordinary density of birdsong and a river that runs cold even in May (!). The buffer zone forests here are excellent for naturalist walks. Leopard sightings are not unusual after dark, so if you’re not in the mood to fight for a safari jeep booking but want as decent a shot at spotting a tiger as possible, this is where to go. 

How far from Delhi: 280-300 km, approx 6-7 hours by road

Nearest railway station: Ramnagar (45 km).

Where to stay: This luxurious suite is one of the larger properties on this list; the suites here are airy, food’s customised to preference, and you’ve got access to 20 different types of fruiting trees!

What it is: A high-altitude Kumaon hamlet at around 2,000 metres, surrounded by apricot and plum orchards

Why we love it: Easily the best spot on this list to completely forget about Delhi and its crowds. It’s not easily found on standard itineraries, nor does it require much of an expedition to reach. The view of the outer Himalayan Shivalik range is obviously stunning, but other than that, it doesn’t have many tourist haunts to offer, except a few local shops. In the summer, since many snow-caps will be missing, it’s even less likely you’ll run into a lot of people here. 

How far from Delhi: 350-380 km, approx. 8-9 hours by road

Nearest railway station: Kathgodam (60-75 km).

Where to stay: The tiny-looking Bessie's Cottage packs great rooms, accessibility for senior citizens and pets, outstanding views, and you can also drive to Mukhteshwar, Nainital and Kainchi Dham.

What it is: A ridge-top town called the ‘Switzerland of India’, but don’t be fooled by the overused comparison; it delivers

Why we love it: This is the winner in terms of excellent views without a massive amount of travel. Nanda Devi, Trishul, Panchachuli – picture them all lined up at dawn like a declaration. Mahatma Gandhi stayed here in 1929 and was so taken by the view that he extended his visit to two weeks, writing his commentary on the Bhagavad Gita here. The Anasakti Ashram where he lived is still standing and worth visiting. The tea gardens below town are also walkable. 

How far from Delhi: 410 km, approx 9-10 hours by road

Nearest railway station: Kathgodam (132 km).

Where to stay: Tathastu’s especially summer-escape-friendly with a BBQ area and ample outdoor seats. You can also ask the caretaker about factories, temples and treks nearby – and stargazing.

What it is: A forgotten little hill town in the Pauri Garhwal district

Why we love it: It’s got the quality of remoteness – age-old oak, 1,700-metre wide meadow, views for days (sunsets and sunrises to be precise, locals recommend) – while still being connected to a nearby town with a bakery, Lansdowne. Also: there’s nearly no hotels, so, in that remote spirit, we suggest you try out a hostel. Another option is the Moustache Rishikesh Luxuria, which is a hotel about 8 kilometres away from the area.

How far from Delhi: 330-365 km, approx 9 hours by road

Nearest railway station: Kotdwar (115 km).

What it is: A Kumaon cantonment town with wide, clean roads and an army-maintained golf course

Why we love it: The golf course at Upat is India’s second largest, and the best part is you don’t need to be a golfer to walk along it. The Chaubatia gardens have apple, plum, apricot and peach orchards that rival the walk, though. It also exemplifies Kumaoni cuisine: aloo ke gutke, madua roti, and bhang ki chutney are perfected here. Another highlight is the Kumaon Regimental Centre, which was founded in the 1970s as a museum dedicated to Kumaeon’s heritage. 

How far from Delhi: 350 km, approx 7-9 hours by road

Nearest railway station: Kathgodam (60 km).

Where to stay: The Colonial Retreat is owned by a family who migrated with the Army during British rule – there’s a deep knowledge of the area here, and there’s charm. And, completely unrelated… you can hire a DJ.