Hidden behind spray-painted shutters (decorated with a slightly baffling mural of a flapping dove and a smoking man in a hat) during the day, from 5pm (and 12.30pm on Saturdays and Sundays) Origano serves up excellent, well-priced antipasto, pasta and pizza.
A garlicky starter of bruschetta pepperonata with creamy goat’s cheese and roast peppers, or caprese salad with capers, fresh basil and vine tomatoes are very reasonably priced (£4.25 each) for the quality of rich, plump ingredients, and explain why the place is more often than not full up on a week night. It’s tiny so booking is recommended although takeaway is also an option.
The pizza dough and bread is made in-house and is probably the main pull here; pizzas are nicely thin, topped with gorgeous cuts of prosciutto, spicy sausage or salty olives, and available in three sizes (starting from £6.95). Leith’s Great Grog keep the wine list interesting too, with a fruity prosecco for £19.95 or Italian white and red wine from £12.50 a bottle. Understated, reliably good and the prices are right too.