What’s the vibe?
Located in a former bank, there’s a real sense of occasion here – the interiors are warm but grand, with high ceilings, picture windows and lots of polished wood – but there’s also a real sense of humour. Look a little closer, and you’ll notice lighthearted touches such as a drawing of a grinning Ainsley Harriet and, above the bar, you can spot two amorously posed cow figurines.
On the menu, seasonality and sustainability are front of mind. The team works closely with local suppliers, buying whole animals which they butcher themselves, meaning you’ll often find lesser-known cuts on offer. This also means the menu changes daily, but whenever you visit, you can expect generous helpings of comforting and flavourful dishes, with inspiration taken from across Europe.
What should I order?
Our lunch gets off to a very promising start with a glass of sparkling Ferrari Trento and two hulking slabs of exceptional sourdough bread, accompanied by a mound of daisy yellow butter (the bread is made in the in-house bakery and is scoffed and replenished many times over the course of the meal). We enjoy a snack of radishes and achoïade (a glossy, anchovy-rich dipping sauce) while discussing wine with our server, who is attentive, knowledgeable and full of fun. She suggests a Frappato from Sicily, a juicy and layered red served chilled, and this proves to be an excellent accompaniment to all the very varied dishes that follow.
Our starters – a creamy brandade served with fennel, lemon, capers and crostini and a pork and prune terrine with pickled pumpkin, cornichons and toast – are both finely balanced and very, very tasty. The mains continue this winning streak. We opt for a whole grilled mackerel that’s fantastically meaty paired with silky violet artichokes and vibrant broad beans, as well as a tender slow roast Boer goat served with grilled tendrils and plump olives, piled high on top of a chunky cicerchia mash.
We round things off with a caramelised brown sugar ice cream which is light in texture and deep in flavour and a silky-smooth elderflower panna cotta, complimented by a crisp shortbread and perfectly in-season strawberries. As we linger over coffees and the last of our wine, we smugly wonder whether anyone in the city has had a lovelier afternoon than us.
What are the prices like?
Starters range from £8-14 and mains run from £19 for a vegetarian dish of roast beetroot, lentils, rainbow chard, goat’s curd and agresto to £45 for a half roast chicken with chips and mustard sauce (designed to be shared between two). Those with serious cash to splash on great wine will not be disappointed, but there are also wonderful bottles at around £30, and a good number of options served by the glass. The cocktail list is short but creative, with the most expensive option coming in at £10.
What’s nearby?
Some of Edinburgh’s best negronis are served at Hey Palu, which is a 15-minute walk from The Palmerston in the direction of the Grassmarket. Alternatively, head into the city centre for a nightcap in the Caley Bar at The Caledonian Hotel, an imposing former railway hotel with a variety of drinking and dining options.