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Antti Helin | Kiilopään savusauna
Antti Helin

Hot stuff: 14 incredible saunas you have to try in Finland

From smoke saunas and icy plunges to art, glass walls and fell-top views, these are the Finnish sauna experiences worth travelling for.

Maija Astikainen
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What’s the most beautiful word in the Finnish language? Löyly. It doesn’t just mean the steam that rises when water is thrown onto the sauna stove, but also the spirit and soul of the sauna. Löyly is at the heart of Finnish sauna culture, and good löyly is the most important quality a sauna can have. Good löyly sends warm, humid air drifting over you, soothing your limbs, bringing sweat to your skin and relaxing your whole body.

Contrast is an essential part of the sauna experience. Once the löyly has done its job, you climb down from the benches and into cool water, take a dip in an ice hole or roll around in the snow. Afterwards, you’re left feeling blissfully relaxed and ready for a cold drink.

Finland is a land of countless saunas, with thousands of public ones too. Each has a character of its own. One might have particularly humid löyly, while another has a crystal-clear lake right outside the door. There’s no single right answer to which sauna is the best, but one thing is certain: once you’ve visited all of these, you’ll know exactly what kind of löyly is your favourite.

What on earth is smoke sauna?

You’ll find more than one smoke sauna on this list. But what exactly is a savusauna, and what makes it so special? It’s the oldest form of Finnish sauna, dating back to the days before chimneys became a standard feature of sauna buildings.

Unlike a modern sauna, a smoke sauna has no chimney. A large wood-burning stove is heated for hours, filling the room with smoke, which is then aired out before anyone goes in. What remains is a deep, smoky scent, darkened timber and exceptionally soft, gentle löyly.

So why are Finns still so fond of them? Partly because of the löyly, but also because a smoke sauna feels like a direct link to an older Finland. Heating one takes time and patience, and the whole experience has a ritualistic quality that a modern electric sauna simply can’t replicate. The scent of smoke, the dim light and the blackened walls make it feel less like visiting a spa and more like stepping into a tradition that has survived for centuries.

The atmosphere is a big part of the appeal: smoke saunas are usually dim, quiet and wonderfully elemental. One practical tip, though – don’t lean against the wall unless you fancy leaving with a soot-black back.

The saunas featured in this article were selected by saunalier Janne Orava – yes, Finland really has those: think of a sommelier, but for löyly – together with the Time Out Finland editorial team.

Best saunas in Finland

1. Kotiharju Sauna, Helsinki

What is it? If you want to experience a Helsinki neighbourhood sauna at its most traditional, there’s nowhere better than Kotiharju Sauna in Kallio.

Why we love it? Kotiharju is a little piece of old Helsinki in the middle of Kallio, now packed with trendy cafés and restaurants. Founded in 1928, this public sauna is a reminder of a time when public saunas were the only place residents of this working-class neighbourhood could wash. Kotiharju has retained its original atmosphere, and people come as much for the nostalgia and sense of community as for a proper löyly. The saunas are divided into men’s and women’s sections, and the hefty wood-fired stoves deliver anything from gentle to seriously hot löyly depending on how high you sit. For particularly intense heat, head for the legendary piippuhylly on the men’s side, the highest bench in the sauna. An essential part of the Kotiharju experience is what happens outside. Cooling off on the street wrapped in a towel is all part of it, and the sight of steaming sauna-goers among the stone buildings at dusk has to be one of Kallio’s most iconic scenes.

Time Out tip: Head to Kotiharju on Thursdays and Saturdays in particular, when you can experience a rare tradition: being scrubbed by a professional washer. You certainly won’t leave cold, or dirty!

Harjutorinkatu 1, Kallio. Open Tuesday-Sunday 14.00-20.00, closed Mondays.

2. BASE – Eat & Heat, Ruka

What is it? At the top of Saarua Hill in Ruka, BASE – Eat & Heat combines a panoramic sauna, two outdoor pools and a restaurant. The sauna’s huge window offers an uninterrupted view of Kuusamo’s snowy fells, while its gondola-access-only location makes getting here an experience in itself.

Why we love it? BASE takes Finnish sauna culture to new heights, quite literally. A white fell landscape stretches beyond the sauna window, and every now and then a skier whizzes right past the glass, casting an incredulous glance inside. The contrast between sauna-goers in swimwear and the snowy landscape is irresistible. There are also two outdoor pools. You can float in the warm 33°C pool in the freezing air, while the cold pool puts your nerve to the test. And if that’s still not enough, steps beside the pools lead straight onto the snowy slope, where you can make snow angels if you fancy it. Drinks can be ordered through a hatch from the neighbouring restaurant to enjoy by the pool. There’s really only one thing getting in the way of total relaxation: the place is so photogenic that you’ll want to reach for your phone every few minutes to take another photo or video. The experience continues after the sauna too, as in our experience the restaurant here is one of Ruka’s best.

Time Out tip: Sunset is often the busiest time. If you want to take in the views in peace, visit during the day, preferably soon after opening.

Saarua summit, Ruka. Public sauna sessions 12.00-22.00. Two-hour sauna session €25. BASE can be reached by the Ruka gondola either from Ruka Village next to Scandic Rukahovi or from Ruka Valley in front of Ski-Inn RukaValley. If you don’t have a lift pass, you can buy a €10 return gondola ticket. Saarua summit cannot be reached by car.

Antti Helin
Antti Helin
Travel and food editor
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3. Kiilopää smoke sauna, Saariselkä

What is it? Kuurakaltio smoke sauna, better known as Kiilopää smoke sauna, next to Urho Kekkonen National Park is Lapland’s most legendary sauna. Many hikers say the whole trip culminates in the moment they step into its dim, smoke-scented warmth.

Why we love it? After a day spent hiking the trails of Urho Kekkonen National Park, Kiilopää has the perfect reward for tired legs. You’ll often find people from all over the world sitting together on the benches, with conversations heading off in all sorts of interesting directions. Kuurakaltio offers a genuine taste of Lapland. Even its plant-covered roof blends into the surrounding fell landscape. In front of the sauna runs the clear but cold Kiilopuro stream, and a post-sauna dip is guaranteed to wake you up. If you can handle the cold, you can swim to the little island nearby and watch the fish swimming past. In winter, taking an icy dip in the clear water amid the snowy landscape is unforgettable.

Time Out tip: Kiilopää smoke sauna is so popular that it’s worth booking a place at a public session online in advance. If you forget, call and ask about cancellations: spaces often become available. Saariselkä has another great sauna spot too: the spa at Galdu Hotel, which you can read more about on our page on Finland’s best hotels.

Kiilopääntie 614, Saariselkä. Open Monday-Saturday.

4. Hanaholmen glass sauna, Helsinki

What is it? The sea-facing glass sauna at Hanaholmen hotel in Espoo, next to Helsinki.

Why we love it? The glass sauna with its sea views is fantastic: true to its name, it’s a glass-walled cube where you feel as though you’re in a world of your own, even though the sauna is outside and joggers whizz past just a few metres away on the other side of the glass. Of course, you can’t see into the sauna through the glass walls, so you can enjoy the löyly in complete peace. The löyly is gentle and there’s room for up to ten people on the benches, although it’s lovely with just two as well. A sauna booking also gives you access to Hanaholmen’s retro swimming pool and indoor saunas, and you can take a dip in the sea from the swimming jetty.

Time Out tip: Stay overnight at Hanaholmen and make the most of the hotel’s private island: take in the art, feast at restaurant Plats and try out all the designer chairs around the building.

Hanasaarenranta 5. Hanaholmen glass sauna can be booked privately from April to October. Private sauna bookings start from €450 for two hours, but hotel guests are occasionally offered free sauna sessions.

Inka Khanji
Inka Khanji
Head of Content, Time Out Nordics
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5. Sataman Viilu, Jyväskylä

What is it? Jyväskylä’s take on the stylish new generation of public saunas that have opened across Finland in recent years.

Why we love it? Rising above Lutakko harbour on the shore of Lake Jyväsjärvi, this log-built sauna nods to traditional sauna architecture while keeping things thoroughly modern. Architecture fans will appreciate the contrast between dark and light wood and the spacious cooling-off area. Viilu represents a new generation of urban saunas, combining a relaxing sauna session with good food. There are three saunas, ranging in atmosphere from bright and airy to dim and intimate. One sauna has as many as three stoves, and throwing löyly couldn’t be easier: just press a button. This is a proper hangout sauna, where the pleasant löyly makes it easy to linger. Large windows in the saunas look out over the lake. Afterwards, keep the relaxation going in the bubbling hot tub on the terrace or take a dip in the lake.

Time Out tip: Getting here couldn’t be easier. Sataman Viilu is just a short distance from Jyväskylä railway station. The sauna and its excellent restaurant are open every day from morning until evening. It’s worth setting aside time for a meal while you’re here. You can book your sauna spot in advance, but walk-ins are also welcome if there’s space.

Satamakatu 10, Jyväskylä. Open every day from the morning into the evening.

6. Kuusijärvi smoke saunas, Vantaa

What is it? On the edge of Sipoonkorpi National Park, Kuusijärvi’s smoke saunas are a much-loved place to experience the real thing. The long-running public smoke saunas have recently been joined by two new saunas combining traditional materials with modern design.

Why we love it? The smoke saunas really come into their own in winter, when you can go straight from their warmth into an ice hole. Kuusijärvi has four smoke saunas in total, each with its own kind of löyly. Once you’ve cooled off with a swim after one sauna, it’s hard to resist trying the next. Everyone else is moving between the saunas and the lake too, and at times Kuusijärvi feels like a miniature sauna festival. There’s no rush: your sauna ticket lets you stay as long as you like, and the doors are open every day. Accessibility has also been taken into account: the changing-room building and one of the new saunas are accessible, so wheelchair users can enjoy the smoke sauna experience too. After a tour of the smoke saunas, your skin smells of smoke, you feel deeply relaxed and a good night’s sleep is almost guaranteed.

Time Out tip: Kuusijärvi is easy to get to, even straight from the airport. The most dedicated sauna fans head here even during a long flight connection. On the benches, international travellers sit side by side with locals dropping in for an evening sauna after work.

Kuusijärventie 3, Vantaa. Daily 9.00-20.30.

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7. Kaihu sauna restaurant, Mikkeli

What is it? Recently opened next to the gardens of Mikkelipuisto, Kaihu is a modern yet welcoming sauna restaurant.

Why we love it? Kaihu is a dream spot for anyone who likes to indulge. The floating lakeside sauna brings together two things Finns can’t get enough of: saunas and lake views. There are two saunas, and their wall-sized windows let you gaze out over the lake while enjoying particularly gentle löyly. You can cool off in the lake straight from the sauna benches. Those who prefer to linger in the warmth can head for the heated pool instead. If you really want to wake yourself up, you can also tip a bucket of ice-cold water over your head. Afterwards, sink into a chair on the terrace, catch your breath and give yourself a satisfied pat on the back. Pale wood surfaces and large windows make the space feel airy and bright. The saunas are open every day, and each session lasts two hours.

Time Out tip: After your sauna, settle in on the rooftop terrace with a cold drink, accompanied by DJ sets at weekends, or keep the good times going in the restaurant.

Pursialankatu 5, Mikkeli. Open every day from the afternoon into the evening.

8. Puusaun, Rauma

What is it? Puusaun in Rauma is a welcoming village sauna where you can become part of the community all year round.

Why we love it? This wood-fired sauna on the shore of Lake Narvijärvi draws plenty of locals, and in the evenings there’s lively conversation on the benches about pretty much anything and everything. It’s also a great place to get a lesson in Rauma’s famously distinctive dialect. You can get some seriously hot löyly here if you want it, but the real draw is the genuine sense of community. This is the kind of place where even famously reserved Finns get chatting. Come alone and chances are you’ll leave having met someone new. There are three saunas, and true to the name, Wood Sauna, their stoves are all wood-fired. The main sauna offers a more intense löyly, while those after something gentler can head to the tent sauna. The third, known as the pinosauna, is designed to resemble a stack of firewood. From all three saunas, you can either slip into the warm pool on the terrace or take a swim in the lake.

Time Out tip: In winter, Puusaun is popular with ice swimmers. In summer, you can head out for a longer swim. Sunset is particularly beautiful here: there are few feelings in the world better than jumping, your skin still steaming from the sauna, into a calm lake whose water looks like liquid gold.

Ruonantie 319. Open every day from the afternoon into the evening.

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9. Serlachius Art Sauna, Mänttä

What is it? The Serlachius Manor Art Sauna in Mänttä.

Why we love it? The family behind the Serla forestry company turned Mänttä, surrounded by forests, into one of Finland’s leading art towns. So it seems only fitting that the museum complex built around its magnificent art collection should have an art sauna too. Open to everyone on Tuesdays, the sauna sits by the lake near Serlachius Manor, which is packed with art treasures. A sauna here is a cultural experience in itself, with art to admire in the sauna building’s lobby, in the mosaic-covered outdoor shower, which also operates in winter, and from the outdoor hot tub. Completed in 2022, the sauna is worth experiencing for its architecture too: on the one hand, it stands out among the pines and birches of Pirkanmaa, while on the other, with its round sauna room, it looks as though it belongs right here on the estate of an industrialist with a passion for art.

Time Out tip: Combine your sauna with a visit to Serlachius Manor, an art museum with both an impressive permanent collection of works from the Golden Age of Finnish art and temporary exhibitions by some of the world’s most famous contemporary artists.

Joenniementie 47, Mänttä. Serlachius Art Sauna has a public sauna session every Tuesday throughout the year from 13.00-19.00. Adults €14.

Inka Khanji
Inka Khanji
Head of Content, Time Out Nordics

What is it? When you want a sauna in Tampere, the main problem is being spoilt for choice. Tampere has declared itself the unofficial sauna capital of the world, and not without reason. Tampere and the surrounding area have more than 70 public saunas. Pereensaari Sauna stands out from the crowd thanks to its spectacular views over Lake Pyhäjärvi.

Why we love it? Pereensaari Sauna sits just outside the city, and the elevated building’s huge windows offer sweeping views across the lake. It’s easy to surrender to the löyly here while gazing towards the horizon and listening to your fellow sauna-goers compete over who can praise the view most enthusiastically. Tradition meets technology here. The sauna’s heating isn’t left to guesswork: an intelligent system controls the temperature, with the aim of creating the perfect löyly for as many people as possible. Cold-water swimmers, meanwhile, appreciate the heated path down to the lake. The sauna is spacious and its south-facing windows let in plenty of light. There’s no need to plan your sauna visit around a particular session, as public sessions run every day. If you’d prefer some privacy, you can book a session in one of Pereensaari’s private saunas.

Time Out tip: Between sauna sessions, you can soak up the sun on the terrace, dive into the lake, dip into the cold pool or grab something to eat by the restaurant’s fireplace.

Pereensaarentie 43, Tampere. Monday-Friday 14.00-22.00, Saturday-Sunday 12.00-22.00.

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