The world’s most famous volcanic isle has suffered from its celebrity status in recent years, with overcrowded streets sadly becoming the norm. But savvy travellers are starting to turn their back on that – albeit spectacular – volcanic caldera and find another way of life in the Cycladic islands’ small villages, where – untouched by the caldera madness – life still goes on as it has done for decades. Close enough to Oia’s famous sunset spot and capital Fira’s shop-lined streets to visit when you want, Neema Maison, tucked into a corner of the tiny hamlet of Finikia, is one of those magical little boutique hotels that you can only stumble across if you’re lucky – but once you do, be warned – you might never want to leave.
Why stay at Neema Maison Finikia Santorini?
Santorini can be overwhelming when the summer heat is on; this breeze-bathed retreat on a hill overlooking lesser-visited sands of Baxedes beach below, and to the distant hump of party island Ios opposite, is the perfect place to unwind after long hot days exploring the island’s more popular resorts. Nowhere is very far away in Santorini – from Neema you can get to Oia’s celebrated castle sunset spot, and capital Fira’s labyrinth shopping lanes, in 10 or 20 minutes (depending on the traffic, which is at its most hectic in July and August). The jaw-dropping archaeological site of Akrotiri – it’s been dubbed ‘Greece’s Pompeii’ – is about half an hour away. It’s part of Domes’ new ‘Finds’ collection – hotels you really need to make an effort to seek out, but are rewarded with a unique local stay.
What are the rooms like at Neema Maison Finikia Santorini?
There are 16 rooms with quirky names (Sunhat Cove; Sarong Hideaway). Funky touches abound in these spacious suites repurposed from cave houses. There are the domed roofs of course – just about standard in any Santorini bolthole – but the ceilings are lofty (high enough to fit in the second-level bedroom or second level).
It’s funky with a big F: the fridge door decorated with the words ‘refreshing vibes always’ sets the tone. Floors are sleek, barefoot-inviting pressed concrete; there’s a hat stand (with a straw hat in it for you to use); black metal stands for hanging jackets or dresses; there’s also a yoga mat for when you want to practise your downward dog on the terrace. Lower parts of walls and bathroom floors are painted in a deep blood red, and there’s a stripy red and white pillar with shoemakers’ forms standing on top; lights are like theatre lights – they shine on black-framed wall-to-ceiling mirror framing a high-perched director’s chair wher eyou can sit in style as you do your makeup; red shelves and a tailor’s dummy all add to this dramatic scene – of which you are meant to be the star. Bathrooms have candy-striped black and white walls - like old-fashioned changing cabins by the seaside - and powerful rain showers. Cosy upper floor bedrooms beneath low domed roof are made for snuggling in front of (another) big screen TV. Some rooms have indoor whirlpool baths or full kitchens so make sure to ask.
Because these are caves, in most rooms the only natural light comes from the front part of the building which leads onto pretty terraces with views over Finikia village’s old cave houses, cobbled streets and lost-in-the-past way of life – don’t be surprised if you spot a donkey or two returning from the fields. You also get an aeroplane-high view of the plains spread out far below and some rooms have glimpses of the glittering sea beyond. Given the smoochy sexy vibe you won’t be surprised to learn that this one’s not for families. It’s adults-only (16+),
What is the food like at Neema Maison Finikia Santorini?
It’s served on the terrace with its royal blue and white tiling and sofas with chunky blood-red cushions overlooking the pretty pool. They’ve made the interesting decision to serve Italian dishes – after all, this is still the Mediterranean – and it can make a nice change if you spend a week here and fancy a change from the usual Greek standards. At Antonino’s (the restaurant)They do a mean cacio e pepe, piled in a bowl with lashings of parmesan, pecorino romano and black pepper on top, and their meltingly rich funghi risotto dished up with a mix of wild and button mushrooms, hazelnuts and pickled shimeji. There are some zingy fresh salads (try the one with goat’s cheese) and some elegant thin-crust pizzas. Portions are huge, so order to share.
Breakfast is à la carte – there are several smoothies including orange, carrot and ginger that they whisk up at your table. The avocado toast with (oddly) a couple of boiled eggs on top is packed with flavour. There are also local fresh-made pies, very strong coffee and juices. For best views take your breakfast up to thefront terrace, which is like a small tower with views over to the sea far below and Ios island opposite.
There are also a couple of cool cave tavernas – Krinaki and Lefkes – along cobbled streets close by.
What’s the service like at Neema Maison Finikia Santorini?
Avoid rooms near the place where the staff have their mops and brooms, because this is where they come to gossip –it can be noisy. Otherwise, it’s a small, friendly team, and even though the hotel is newly opened, they’re already good at what they do – breakfast menu and dinner menus swiftly handed and orders just as swiftly taken. But also, because it’s a small hotel, they stay around to chat and tell you about the surrounding area or snippets of their own lives – so you feel like you get a bit of an inside view of Greek life.
What are the pools and facilities like at Neema Maison Finikia Santorini?
There’s one pool shaped like a peanut husk. It is really pretty, with the hotel’s signature blood-red lines around the inside and a doughnut-shaped ring floating on top for everyone to play with. Surrounding the pool there are cabanas with (you guessed it) pretty red and white cushions, breeze-blown curtains that you can close for total privacy, and doughnut-soft mattresses – mattresses so comfortable you have to force yourself to get up and dip in the pool when the heat is on. There are also different relaxing areas with loungers or well-cushioned wicker chairs.
Why you should book a stay at Neema Maison Finikia Santorini
So you can tell all your friends about this hidden gem that only you’ve been clever enough to find – and drive them mad with FOMO.
DETAILS
Address: Finikia, 84702, Santorini, Greece
Price per night: Starting from €256 per night
Closest transport: Santorini airport is 15 kilometres away and the ferry port where ships depart for the nearby islands (and further afield) is 12 kilometres – transfers usually take about 25–30 minutes, but you’ll need double that in high season. The hotel can arrange your transfer. KTEL buses also run between Oia, Fira and many of the best-known beaches.