Hanoi’s Lý Quốc Sư street has changed beyond recognition over the last two decades, but at number 10, things have remained resolutely the same: a broth that rolls from 4am daily, and a service that simmers in parallel.
Now in their 20th year of trading, locals and tourists queue for what many consider Hanoi’s (and therefore, by rights, the world’s) finest phở.
The vibe: A handful of communal tables bring a knocking-elbows street food energy, but all under air-conditioned comfort. Expect to share those tables with strangers during peak times – it’s all part of the experience, even if the only conversation you share is a choral slurping of approval.
The tight kitchen, visible through steamed-up partitions, offers a glimpse into the theatrical assembly of your bowl, with soup ladled from a great height and with daredevil dexterity. A fast-paced service is so efficient it borders on the brusque. This one’s not for hanging around; you'll eat and leave within 20 minutes.
The food: A beef noodle soup of the gods. The broth's natural, bone-deep sweetness makes it simultaneously refreshing in summer and warming during Hanoi's surprisingly chilly winters.
Menus with English translations sit under the glass surface of every table. Connoisseurs order the tái gầu version, which sees slices of slow-braised brisket and raw beef sharing the bowl. The former’s ribbons of fat gently melt into the broth, gilding the soup's surface.
Order a side of quẩy (crispy fried dough sticks) for that essential textural contrast. The usual condiments of lime, sliced chillies, fish sauce, and garlic vinegar implore diners to season to taste.
The drinks: Trà đá (iced jasmine tea) is the move here, so refreshing and with a gentle bitterness. Hanoi beers are also available, but are rarely ordered. With a broth this fortifying, it would feel almost uncouth.
Time Out tip: There are imitators across Hanoi, under the same name and with the same standout orange facade. The real deal is – unsurprisingly – the one on Lý Quốc Sư street.