The slushy streets and noise pollution of Erottaja are left behind, replaced by a dimly lit – I’m tempted to say even dusky – candlelit dining room that feels like stepping into a treasure chamber from the tales of One Thousand and One Nights.
You can book a table either in the main restaurant or in the lounge, located right by the front doors and offering a front-row seat to the bustle of Erottaja. The restaurant’s true atmosphere, however, reveals itself at the back: after the bar, a set of steps leads up to the dining room, where floor-to-ceiling curtains act as room dividers and candles flicker along the walls.
The atmospheric space feels made for a romantic dinner
There aren’t many high-quality restaurants in Helsinki specialising in Middle Eastern food culture, so Nefer, Nefer, Nefer arrived with some much-needed flavours. The atmospheric space feels made for a romantic dinner, but it also works beautifully for elevating an everyday meal.
Atmosphere is unquestionably the restaurant’s biggest strength. The staff radiate calm friendliness throughout the evening, despite the fact that our small children in tow aren’t exactly paragons of serenity for the entire meal. But as is customary in many Middle Eastern countries, children are welcome to explore the space, giving parents – or at least one of them – the rare chance to eat in peace.
The food is Persian-Levantine, rich with saffron, herbs and lemon. The menu gives plenty of room to the ingredients themselves, and some dishes are even pared back, such as grilled tomatoes or the tartare-like kibbeh neyyeh. The flavours of the hummus tartlet instantly transport you back to a Lebanese grandmother’s kitchen, while the kashkeh bademjan aubergine dish stands out as the undisputed star of the meal.
That said, consistency varies: alongside a handful of undeniably excellent dishes, others are overwhelmed by an overabundance of lemon and dill, which masks the remaining flavours a little too much.
Taken as a whole, the food and menu offer a diverse introduction to Persian and Levantine cuisine, with just the right amount of surprise. If you’re expecting nothing but hummus and skewered meats, think again. Hummus, for example, appears only once, as a small bite.
The restaurant has its own bar and a varied drinks list, from which we sampled the alcohol-free options. Alongside non-alcoholic sparkling wines, the mocktails also showcase Middle Eastern flavours.
The vibe A memorable atmosphere and a beautiful dining room that truly doesn’t feel like Helsinki.
The food Fresh and flavourful, with a varied spread of Persian-Levantine tastes and classics.
The drink Take a good look at the drinks list, as the in-house bar delivers delicious, memorable cocktails and mocktails.
Time Out tip A great option for a long evening is to order the table full of starters and enjoy them with drinks in the lounge.