Wino

Ever seen anything like this before? The waiter actually sat down next to us to explain the menu. On paper it sounds bonkers – and in a way it absolutely is – but somehow it works. In just any other restaurant it would be a huge risk, but at Wino, it’s part of the charm. 

The restaurant’s name is a playful triple-entendre blending wine drinker with the Finnish word for wonky and quirky, perfectly capturing the spirit of a place that does things its own way.

There are just half a dozen tables, candles flicker, and all evening you’re bathed in classic funk grooves from James Brown to Sly & the Family Stone. A quirky wooden draft lobby jutting into the room somehow adds to the appeal.

According to our table-side host, Wino is a wine bar that also does food. The short, affordable menu changes every couple of months: three starters (€14–15), three mains (€18–22) and three desserts (€5–10), plus a handful of snacks if you fancy just nibbling with your wine. There’s usually a daily special too.

The four-course tasting menu is €56, but our waiter highly recommended trying everything on the menu, so that’s exactly what we did.

By the time water and pre-dinner drinks hit the table, I was already sold. Wino’s vibe is so funky that if you had to pick one place in Helsinki as a go-to spot, this would be a strong contender, especially at these prices. And as for the food? I was ready to forgive a lot… but I didn’t have to.

Starters arrive: whitefish ceviche with blood orange, root celery with apple, and a tartare elevated by kale and pine nuts. Full marks all around. The fish isn’t drowned in its marinade – you actually taste the fresh fish – but if you had to pick one, the tartare steals the show: sumptuous and rich enough to charm even the person at my table who usually avoids raw meat.

This pumpkin ravioli might just the best veggie dish in town 

Too often mains fall flat after brilliant starters, but not here. By the time you’ve tasted the mains you might just feel like leaping up from the table and cutting a rug to Super Bad itself. The wild boar with red cabbage and char fish in antiboise are great, but it’s the pumpkin ravioli that really steals the show: it might just be one of the best veggie dishes in town (though it’s not vegan). Balanced and surprising, with crispy pickled pumpkin and a whisper of browned butter that’s just right.

If you didn’t know you loved pumpkin before, you’ll be planning a trip to Tillander (Helsinki’s version for Tiffany’s) for an engagement ring after this. And at €18? That’s daylight robbery in the best possible way.

Of course, a hit like that has a downside: almost nothing afterwards feels as thrilling – until dessert arrives. The chocolate brownie is a playful, luxe take on a party favourite, but the rosemary pannacotta ends the meal perfectly. It’s slightly adventurous, with contrasting textures from firm pannacotta to soft ice cream and chocolate shards. The foresty hint of rosemary is addictive.

Take the waiter’s advice and work through the whole menu. Seriously: every dish deserves applause, and there’s something strangely satisfying about walking in and conquering the lot in one go. No second-guessing if you missed the best plate.

Like the food, the wine list is short, punchy and well curated – though I wouldn’t recommend trying every option in one sitting.

Wino is a remarkable experience. It’s a charming wine bar where sub-€20 dishes outshine many pricier restaurants. You’ll almost have to pinch yourself to believe such a place exists in pricey Helsinki, and it’s surprising it hasn’t become common knowledge yet. With these prices and this quality, it should be full every night.

By the end of the evening – as James Brown might have put it (even if the track didn’t play): I feel good!

Atmosphere Nail-on vibe, even on quiet nights.
Food The short menu that shows its strength; everything is fresh, delicious and expertly executed.
Drink Wednesdays are ideal for wine enthusiasts, as a special bottle is uncorked midweek and available by the glass.

Time Out tip We ate the whole menu between two of us, but it would easily feed three – or maybe even four – if you’re not ravenous and just want to feast affordably.