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Lehchen is a short walk from Leh Market. It's tucked away on the first floor, right above 1984 Pizza House. A little gate to the right of the pizzeria leads to a low-ceilinged staircase, with portraits of some seriously dashing historical figures. This includes Che Guevara and Bob Marley, put on the same wall. At the entrance, a neon-lit Lenchen logo glows against the otherwise slate-grey backdrop, setting the tone for what’s to come.
Step in and your eyes first land on the handsomely lit bar, which looks a little like someone’s kitchen slab. Alongside the usual suspects like whisky, you’ll spot jars packed with ingredients, some of which may not look particularly familiar.
Then, let your eyes wander through washed-out walls, wooden furniture and framed caricatures to find the perfect spot for yourself. If the weather is playing nice, grab a seat on the balcony for the view of a silent street below. It’s the same balcony you noticed when you first spotted Lenchen. Like most balconies in Leh, this one also comes with intricate shingkos (traditional Ladakhi wooden carvings) that make the otherwise simple grey outdoors look a little edgier and classier.
Since I visited the bar during the monsoon, the balcony looked even more tempting. When it comes to Ladakh, it hardly rains in this cold desert. And even when it does, it’s usually just a drizzle. So don’t miss one if you catch one.
The owner, Tsewang Gyatso, welcomed me and took me to the other section of the bar, which was breezier and more naturally lit. The walls had a few framed artworks, but nothing that stole from the bar’s woody, raw character. It’s the kind of space that has decided to say no to over-the-top artwork and embellishments.
The cocktails
The bar has enough stock of gin, beer, rum and wine to keep the classics happy. But skip those for their exclusive Himalayan Detox cocktail section. Not because everything traditional is automatically better, but because these cocktails are genuinely about the taste.
The drinks are light on the palate without skimping on flavour. These specifically bring together indigenous ingredients such as apricot, sibakthun, Himalayan honey and wild herbs. Of the eight cocktails on the list, go for the Chang Spritz for a lighter, fruitier sip, or the Tsampa Old Fashioned if you’re after something denser. Tsampa has a base of brandy mixed with a local beer made in the villages.
I went twice for the Apricot Orchard Sour, which sits somewhere in the middle of the above two. The base is brandy-led, while fresh apricot (the seasonal harvest here) brings sweetness. It all comes together with roasted barley sprinkles, lemon and a tangy sibakthun (indigenous berry of Ladakh) powder rimmed around the glass.
The cocktail is also the only one on the menu that comes with a frothy top, though the egg white is optional.
The drink explodes on the palate, hitting sweet, tangy and bitter notes all at once. Let it sit for a moment before biting into the juicy apricot perched on the rim. Monsoon is also when sibakthun and apricots are harvested, so the one I had was especially juicy, soft and almost melt-in-the-mouth.
The food
The food menu is just as tempting, and pleasantly easy on the pocket. For starters, order the shiitake mushrooms if you’re going veggie, or the prawn tempura otherwise.
The first half of the menu leans heavily Indian, with options like chicken tikka, while the other half takes a sharp turn towards Italian, with pasta, spaghetti and lasagna options. Lenchen has also put some thought into the salads, especially if you’re stopping by in the morning.
My Apricot Orchard Sour could pair well with anything smoky and chewy, like the grilled mushrooms. The bar owner strongly recommends ordering something from the tandoor. Go for the fish-based plates, made with local indigenous trout sourced from the Indus River. If you’re in the mood for something meatier, opt for shapta or Tibetan chilli chicken.
Lehchen and the bar culture in Ladakh
For years, Ladakh never really had a bar culture, save for the one involving changg, the traditional barley brew. Over time, though, new bars and cafés started to experiment with local ingredients to make things a little more boutique and modern.
Today, you’ll find some rather gorgeous cafés and bars scattered around Leh Market, though dedicated drinking spots are still limited. Most stay open almost until midnight. You can even finish your drink and take a stroll through the almost-empty Leh Market afterwards.
Lenchen entered the scene around 2015–16, creating one of the first spaces where women could drink comfortably. The space is neat. Warm lights have a way of making the cold evenings feel slightly less chilly. The bar is especially inviting if you’re looking to socialise, meet fellow travellers (and locals), or simply settle in with some rock-house-ish music playing in the background. Check out their Instagram for upcoming events at the bar.
Time Out tip: Getting here is easy enough. Just keep an eye out for the Himalayan dogs on your stroll back home. If you’d rather not walk, the staff is more than happy to help arrange a taxi.