Ahilya by the Sea

When Richard Holkar's family converted their beachfront estate into Ahilya by the Sea, they probably weren't expecting guests to contemplate the meaning of susegad whilst watching fishermen haul in the day's catch from their villa balconies. But here we are. 

This isn't your typical Goan beach resort with inflatable flamingos and all-day breakfast buffets. With just ten rooms spread across three Portuguese-style villas, this is the kind of place where the staff remember your name, your cocktail preference, and which spot you liked for sunset drinks. Between the infinity pool overlooking Dolphin Bay, the owner's personally curated art collection (spoils from decades of global wandering), and cuisine so good you'll debate extending your stay just for one more meal, Ahilya By The Sea manages that rare trick of feeling simultaneously luxurious and lived-in. 

Why stay at Ahilya by the Sea?
You've done the party beaches, the yoga retreats, and the 'rustic' guesthouses with questionable plumbing. What you haven't done is wake up to the sound of waves lapping at the property wall, take morning laps in an infinity pool whilst dolphins potentially swim past (they're regulars in the bay), and have every single meal served in a different stunning location around the property. One night it's candlelit beneath a banyan tree, the next it's at a private table overlooking the sea. The intimacy is real here. With only ten rooms, there's a fair chance you'll have the sunset plunge pool to yourself. Add in the fact that this is one of the last active fishing bays in Goa and you've got yourself a proper escape. It's also blissfully removed from the Goan party circuit.

What are the rooms like?
These individually named spaces (Annalia, Minstrel, Barcos, Florentina, and the crown jewel Trinidade Suite) are spread across three villas and feel more like staying in someone's extremely well-appointed beach house. High ceilings, antique furniture mixed with contemporary pieces, and art collected from around the world adorn the walls. The Trinidade Suite on the first floor of the Leela Villa is the showstopper with panoramic sea views and its own balcony, ideal for watching those fishing boats venture out at dawn. Rooms come with the essentials (air-conditioning, safety deposit boxes) and the extras you didn't know you needed (like balconies perfect for reading whilst the Arabian Sea sits still below). No televisions, which is either a blessing or a dealbreaker depending on how committed you are to switching off. Bathrooms are sleek, modern affairs in white and chrome. Some rooms share common living areas and verandas, which actually works rather nicely when you fancy a chat with fellow guests over morning coffee.

What's there to eat?
The à la carte menu pulls from Goan, Italian, and French traditions whilst the daily prix-fixe showcases whatever the fishermen brought in that morning. This is line-caught fish, not deep-sea trawled, and the kitchen is making a conscious effort to highlight local varieties alongside the usual suspects. They’re known for plump rawa-fried prawns, fiery fish curry, tisrya sukke (a dry clam preparation that'll elevate your relationship with shellfish), and proper Goan red rice. The Portuguese influence shows up in desserts like serradura, a layered pudding that's essentially whipped cream and crumbled biscuit doing very good things together. Everything is al fresco, everything uses the freshest market ingredients, and if you're not contemplating an afternoon nap after that fish thali, you're made of stronger stuff than most. The newly opened Martini Bar might just have you slipping into a tux to order a dirty martini – shaken, not stirred.

What are the facilities like?
The two swimming pools come with their own distinct personalities. The sunrise infinity pool’s my choice for morning laps or birdwatching; the sunset plunge pool’s hidden in the garden, surrounded by pink and white frangipani. 

The Body & Soul spa tent offers massages and traditional therapies, plus there's a library for when you remember you used to enjoy reading, and enough nooks and crannies around the property to find your own private spot. The beach itself isn't suitable for swimming as this is a working fishing bay, and not a resort beach, but the property can arrange transport to the proper swimming beaches up north (Morjim, Mandrem, Ashvem) if you absolutely must get sand between your toes. Frankly, between the two pools and that view, you might not bother.

What's the service like?
Warm, attentive, and crucially, not hovering. Staff remember preferences, and they help pull together itineraries for exploring nearby neighbourhoods. The continuity of staff means regulars get recognised and welcomed back like family. Given this is a family-owned property rather than a corporate hotel, there's a warm personalisation to everything. When staff help organise your day or recommend a restaurant, they do it like they're genuinely invested in you having a good time.

What's the area like?
Nerul is a small fishing village that's somehow managed to dodge most of the tourist tat. This means you get the authentic Goan experience: watching fishing boats come in at dawn, the Mandovi river snaking through, actual Portuguese architecture rather than pseudo-colonial pastiche. You're a ten-minute walk from the village proper, a 25-minute stroll to Reis Magos Fort (worth it for the views), and a short drive to Panjim if you fancy proper restaurants and the Fundação Oriente Museum. Old Goa isn't far either, and the northern beaches are accessible when you want sand and waves. The property is positioned where the Mandovi River meets the Arabian Sea, which sounds romantic because it is.

Time Out tip: Book at least three nights and if you ask me, don’t leave the property. 

Closest airport: Around 40 minutes from Manohar International Airport