Ananda in the Himalayas

Touted as the pioneer of wellness stays in the country, Ananda owes half the heavy-lifting of that claim to the Himalayas alone. The palace gazes down at the Ganges (mostly green-blue here in these parts) on one side, and up at the mountains on the other. It’s somewhere between hazy mist and forest. 

The rest is an expanse of gem-like gardens and white heritage-style buildings,  all under the steady gaze of the Viceregal Palace, the erstwhile home to the Maharaja of Tehri Gharwal, still kitted out with the century-old furniture, antique four-posters, vintage tapestries and Belgian mirrors. The result, though, isn’t all heady opulence. There is some groundedness here that most heritage palace hotels sidestep. 

Who is it for?

Wellness is the brisk aim here. The palace will form merely the backdrop; most of your stay will likely be spent between the spa block and your elegant, neutral-toned room, which owes very little to royal nostalgia. 

What I mean to say is: if you’re after a glamorous holiday replete with several outfit changes and late, booze-fuelled dinners, this is not it. This is a disciplined, schedule-driven affair. You will wake early, be in bed by 10pm, and probably eat far less than usual. 

Travel light – there’ll be a soft white cotton kurta-pajama set waiting for you in your wardrobe, replenished twice daily. You will live in it daily and silently be thankful, considering the amount of oil in your body and hair from the spa treatments. I’d say there’s something deeply liberating about not caring how you look, though. 

Within hours of arrival, you’ll be sitting with an Ayurvedic doctor who evaluates your dosha, sleep patterns, stress levels and digestion. An itinerary follows. Early morning yoga, an afternoon Vedanta lesson, three controlled meals, and two massage treatments a day. Your schedule is full.

There is no sightseeing agenda. The only real outing’s a slow walk through manicured gardens and stepped landscapes with gentle fish-scale waterfalls that are scientifically proven to lower blood pressure. 

Excursions into Rishikesh for the evening Ganga Aarti can be arranged. If you turn up in your Ananda uniform, chances are you’ll be discreetly ushered into a front row without asking. That’s the sort of reputation this place carries.

Basically: Ananda’s for those who want to detox without feeling like they’ve checked into a hospital, and obviously, for those who don’t mind paying for it. The guest list is illustrious, so there’s plenty of brag value.

The minimum stay is three nights, and rates are all-inclusive. You may momentarily calculate that the same sum could finance extravagant palace feasts elsewhere. Here, every meal’s tailored to your body type and the goals of your programme: personalised, plated meticulously and intentionally smaller than you might expect. That restraint is part of the luxury.

The rooms

For the price point, you might question the size of the rooms and the amenities at first. But the devil’s in the details, and that’s why you sleep better here. The muted colour palette, pillow menu, high-thread-count sheets, and that view of the Ganges all add up. There is a flat-screen television that feels slightly out of place, albeit necessary in a five-star property, I suppose. The minibar is alcohol-free and stocked only with healthy options.

The spa

The highlight of the property is its 2,230 sq m spa, which stands in clean-lined contrast to the old palace buildings behind it. Modern spaces. Himalayan rock saunas. There are 24 treatment rooms, each cocooned enough to feel entirely private. The main spa lobby features a high skylight that filters sunlight into a round, knee-deep pool below.

Signature therapies range from holistic Ayurvedic rituals and Tibetan facials to classic Swedish massages. The Kama Suite, designed for couples, offers a more indulgent experience with specially selected oils intended to be both sensual and spiritual.

Beyond the treatment rooms lies a state-of-the-art hydrotherapy area complete with a steam room, sauna and a Kneipp circuit. The spa boutique’s almost reason enough to linger, stocked with Ananda’s own products, yoga mats, books, clothing and jewellery. It’s the only kind of retail therapy encouraged here.