Padmaa

It’s slightly unusual for travellers to peel themselves off Jaipur’s Instagram-baiting pink thoroughfares and wander into the less colour-corrected side alleys of the walled city. What they’ll find here is an assortment of time-worn havelis, some of them dating back to the city’s inception. Most are decrepit, but Padmaa’s one of the lucky ones: restored, and restored well. 

Nothing about the exterior’s flashy. There isn’t much announcing its presence besides a 300-year-old wooden door, with frescoes peeking out from under layers of limewash. It’s the only thing separating Padmaa from the absolute chaos of honking scooters, stray cows, and locals loudly bargaining over groceries, but that only makes for a stunning contrast once you step inside. The ruckus outside melts into flute notes, the hotch-potch of the street’s replaced by a hush that only the thick walls of a haveli can conjure, and all around, you see stunning local motifs. The contrast happens to be the whole point, and the folks behind Padmaa know it. 

Why stay at Padmaa

It’s true that Jaipur has no shortage of palace hotels, plus plenty that would very much like you to believe they’re palaces, and they all come with the usual roll-call of massive gardens, fountain features and peacocks. Padmaa’s got some of that royal flourish, but placed against a much more realistic setting. It’s for travellers who don’t mind squeezing through chaotic lanes, who can tolerate a high honk-per-minute ratio, and can handle the real walled city over the sanitised touristy version. It’s for folks who are okay with less-than-pristine streets, enjoy the charm of being picked up in an e-rickshaw over a rented car, and are able to experience the city as it really is. 

The authenticity is overwhelmingly charming. No balcony views of sunsets and fort walls here. Old homes like these were never designed around panoramas, so instead, Padmaa features fifteen massive rooms (far, far bigger than a branded hotel), curved around a central courtyard, which is a sight to behold, with arches, frescoes, and walls washed in Jaipur pink. 

The hotel excels when it comes to details, both architectural and personal. Marble inlay floors, custom lighting, deep-set nooks (another haveli standard) now repurposed as low seating, swings, a rocking chair. Small intermittent terraces that were used for sleeping outdoors in old times, and now converted into seating areas. Loads of little knicknacks from the trunk of Padmaa Devi, the family matriarch, who in part inspired this hotel. It all feels wonderfully intimate, as if you’re perhaps here for a longer stay than you booked. It makes an early morning coffee that much more delightful. 

The rooms are all slightly different, with enough old-world charm to fit the rest of the aesthetic, but modern enough that you won’t miss the fancy amenities of luxury palaces. They’re beautifully done, with handblock prints, handmade rugs, and trinkets you’ll probably spot in the markets outside. Bathrooms aren’t extraordinarily sumptuous, but charming and home-like enough. Anyone familiar with old havelis will know that ensuite bathrooms weren’t a thing back then, so a clean, well-ventilated space with a dedicated dry and wet area and snow-white towels counts as an upgrade from history.

The rooftop pool is perhaps Padmaa’s most delightful highlight. It’s more of a generous plunge pool than a swimmer’s paradise, but it feels luxurious in a neighbourhood where every available square foot is usually claimed for commerce and survival. Padmaa may well be the only place in this part of the walled city where you can claim bragging rights to terrace swimming.

Where to eat at Padmaa

Padmaa has its own small restaurant and bar that serves good, hygienic food. But if you love street food and have a decent sense of adventure, look no further than the streets outside. 

You could start your morning with cookies from Bhartiya Bakery across the street, which dates back to the 1950s. Follow with hot chai and samosas from Samraat, which is some 100 steps away if you don’t mind the queue. The place has a serious cult following among locals. Finish with boondi from Sondhya’s Halwai. There are also countless street-side legends and snack vendors nearby, each more tempting than the last.