The rise of the anti-hotel in Goa

Goa has never struggled to fill its hotel rooms. The vast coastline, hot, wet jungle, gorgeous resorts and sunset parties ensure it remains India's premier tourist destination, with nothing threatening its place on the podium.

I’ll tell you something, though. It’s not just the pristine beaches and luxury hotels that keep Goa on top. It’s the fact that the hospitality industry here hasn’t fallen into the trap of smug complacency. As tourist numbers grow, so do their preferences. And guess what? Goa’s keeping up.

Increasingly, that means looking beyond the clinical luxury of five-star hotels. Somewhere between the check-in queue and the buffet breakfast, travellers are seeking something more personal. The anti-hotel, if you will.

What is an anti-hotel? It’s easy-going. Unstructured. Homely. And what's more, it’s private. As an ex-hotelier with a track record in classic luxury hotels, this, I notice, is a clear departure from the predictable.

Why ditch the big chains?

Forty-one-year-old Prema, a senior exec from Chennai, knows a thing or two about needing a break. ‘Spending a few days in Goa’s the easiest way to beat corporate stress. A cousin or two joins me from here or there, and because the idea’s to relax completely, we make sure to stay away from the branded hotels,’ she says. For her, a premium villa may come with a pricier tag, but the personal touch is more than worth it.

One such stay’s the Hacienda de Bastora, in the quaint Bastora village in North Goa. The property’s centred around a restored Portuguese mansion, reimagined as suited and independent villas overlooking lush tropical gardens. Inside, ornate chandeliers hang from the ceiling and glint in unison. Their light echoes off burnished mahogany tabletops, catching onto antique Tiffany table lamps. The core of the house is a small courtyard, where a gnarled frangipani tree shades a laughing Buddha. The garden’s a lush repository of flower and fruit trees. The pool, located amidst the greens, is where I spent most of my day relaxing. The personal touches go a long way in making the stay more endearing, including the garden tombstone for Troy, the family’s late pet dog.

Another compelling stay is The First House. Unhurried afternoons over rounds of mahjong, lounging by the pools, or strolling the lawns. The on-site hydroponics garden, where fresh produce is grown sustainably, never fails to thrill tourists.

Or SaffronStays’ premium X-Series, which signals a segment that sits above conventional villa inventory, targeted at affluent group travellers. The one in Sangolda’s designed beautifully: soaring open spaces, dramatic indoor-outdoor flow, two saltwater temperature-controlled pools, including one with a sunken bar and jacuzzi, panoramic terraces overlooking lush paddy fields, and a spectacular 2,000 sq. ft. master suite connected via glass bridges.

There are more perks

Sometimes, the appeal’s not just the refurbished villa. The Postcard Ayurveda Retreat, for instance, is a private wellness sanctuary offering personalised healing journeys through treatments and expert consultations, designed for stays between seven to 21 nights.

Or take Casa Zen, where personalisation is at the heart of the experience. The 150-year-old Portuguese home in Saligao’s a delicious concoction of old world charm plus actress Maria Goretti’s eclectic taste, vintage collectibles and all. The 5-bedroom home’s available as a single unit for group bookings, with an exclusive cook-along with Maria herself as the highlight (at an additional cost). The girls in the group chat will love this one.

You could also ditch the modern trappings and sumptuous amenities. Slow living’s not necessarily about luxurious living, after all. Experiences matter too – ones that really allow you to connect with the place. Nishad and Richa Navelkar have got those down pat. At Wildflower Villas, they’re conscientious stewards of their luxuriant forest land just outside buzzing Candolim. Here, you’ll find traditional Saraswat Goan food, plus jungle walks where you can forage for your own breadfruit, coconut, tomato and cashew, all to be used during a hands-on cooking class.

Big hotels are catching up

There’s a decently solid case to be made for the assuredness that branded hotels bring, though. You can’t rule them out if a conventional standard is what you’re after – and several of them have taken the cue and levelled up beyond the usual efficient check-in, fine linens, destination-worthy dining and luxe spa treatments.

‘There’s something for everyone across the 56 acres of Taj Exotica Resort & Spa, Goa: a nine-hole golf course, tennis court, football and cricket facilities, beach picnics, kids’ activities, and Ayurveda therapies,’ says Sheetal Singh, General Manager of Taj Exotica Resort. 

Not to mention amã Stays & Trails that IHCL (Taj Hotels) launched in 2019, which offers intimate and authentic villa and bungalow experiences, envisioned as a quiet departure from the usual branding norm. One could say that Taj spells occasion and prestige, while amã seems to spool off a privacy and place-based narrative.