The ultimate Jaipur food guide

What is it: A restaurant housed inside a 1930s colonial mansion, best known for their keema baatis.

Why we love it: The go-to spot for absolutely-no-nonsense Rajasthani cuisine. There’s their spicy, slow cooked laal maas (lamb) that pairs perfectly with butter naan and junglee maas braised with whole spices and garlic for that rustic, straight-off-the-farm feel. Also, something that self-admittedly took the founder over 15 attempts to master – the minced meat (keema) baati laden in ghee. Vegetarians, fret not. The Papad Mangodi sabzi (which barely ever makes it to a restaurant menu) is as good as at any resident’s home. Definitely also get the Govind Gatta stuffed with spicy khoya – divine with plain baatis.

Time Out tip: While you’re at Spice Court, grab the Clementine Ghewar Entremet from Dzurt by Chef Tejasvi Chandela in the same premises to finish off your Rajasthani gluttony at the highest high.

Timings: Mon-Sun. 11am-11pm. 

Price: ₹1,700 for two without alcohol.

Address: Jacob Road, Mysore House/Achrol House Colony, Madrampur, Civil Lines, Jaipur, Rajasthan 302006

What is it: A sweet shop since 1954 that does delicious Indian mithais but better kachoris.  

Why we love it: If all of Jaipur is flocking at someplace from 6:30 in the morning to get their Sunday binge, you best believe it is worth all the hype. Sodhani’s pyaz kachoris, fried until not golden but desert brown, are so savoury and crackly that you’ll have bits all over your shirt. Stuffed with minced potato and sweet and sharp onions, it’s other-worldly when dipped into the tamarind chutney. Wash it all down with a tall kulhad lassi and if you have any wiggle room left, please let it be for the crispy jalebis.

Timings: Mon-Sun. 7am-9.30pm. 

Price: ₹300 for two.

Address: Multiple outlets: Bapu Nagar, Ajmer Road, Vidyadhar Nagar.

What is it: A dreamy heritage restaurant atop Amer Fort, where royals once lived.

Why we love it: The menu features an authentic Rajasthani spread, cooked with copious amounts of the best-quality ghee. The seekh kebabs fall apart before you can skewer them with your fork. The jungle maas – lamb cooked in red chillies – is spicy, but it’s the kind of spicy you can’t stop eating. They’ve got every Rajasthani delicacy down pat – even the Jodhpuri gatta curry’s as authentic as it can possibly be. It’s pricey, yes, but it’s worth it. The decor, service, and food more than makes up for the hefty bill. Keep in mind, though, that because it’s a fort, it’s not the most wheelchair-friendly place in Jaipur.

Time Out tip: You can call in advance to book a rose-sprinkled pathway and candle-lit set-up if you’re going for a date night. Unreal brownie points.

Timings: Mon-Sat: 11am-11.30pm. Sun: Noon-10.30pm.

Price: ₹4,000 for two, without alcohol

Address: Amber Palace, 1135 AD, Jaleb Chowk, Devisinghpura, Jaipur, Rajasthan 302028.

What is it: A hole-in-the-wall shop in Jaipur’s old city nationally known for their aloo pyaz sabzi, run by the fourth generation of the family.

Why we love it: Doesn’t matter how prim, proper and worldly you are, when at Mahaveer, the only acceptable way to eat (nay, devour) is to get those fingers down and dirty. The thali (spread) comes with spicy and tangy aloo pyaz sabzi tempered with garlic, multigrain roti called ‘tikkad’ that’ll moisturise your hands with ghee in one bite, and the blazing red garlic chutney. And now, you do the honours – crush the roti, pour over the sabzi, and top it with the chutney and let your hands do the mixing (really smash those potatoes for an even flavour). Rabdi’s in their name, so it’s only fair to sign off with the laccha rabdi which, if you’ve received straight out of the refrigerator, can easily put you on your way to paradise.

Timings: Mon-Sun. 9am-midnight.

Price: ₹400 for two.

Address: Shop No. 3, Mishra Raja Ji Ka Rasta, Chandpole Bazar, Pink City, Jaipur, Rajasthan 302001. 

What is it: Strong since 1936, one of the city's handful namkeen shops to do kachoris stuffed with unpeeled potatoes. 

Why we love it: By now, you know Jaipur isn’t messing around when it comes to their kachoris. While an unpeeled potato stuffing may sound like an oddity (before you ask, no, you don’t taste or feel the peel), it’s quite the rage among the city’s kachori devotees. At any given point in time, they’re frying up fresh batches of tightly-packed kachoris so steamy and spicy they’ll launch any faint palate into a rocket-speed sprint, searching for something sweet.

Time Out tip: Keep cash handy because they don’t accept online payments. 

Timings: Mon-Sun. 8am-8:30pm.  

Price: ₹80 for two. 

Address: Opposite Darbar School, Baba Harishchandra Marg, Chandpole Bazaar, Jaipur, Rajasthan 302001.

What is it: An all-vegetarian North Indian eatery with breads so crunchy they might just trump their curries.

Why we love it: When the only thing on your memo is to pig out on luscious North Indian food with no load of dolling up or making small talk with your servers, you come to Sharma Dhaba. Let us order for you, please. Start off with crispy aloo chat seasoned with such copious amounts of masalas, mint and coriander that you’ll finish off the entire bowl trying to figure out the permutation and combination of the flavours behind. But pray stop. Call for creamy cashewnut curry, malai kofta that’s equal parts spicy, and sweet and a crackling garlic naan. And now comes the top dog – the mawa paratha. It is what is says on the tin: a bread stuffed with reduced, sweetened, semi-solid milk that goes unimaginably well with every single curry.

Time Out tip: If waiting for your food gets to your nerves, call for masala papad. How a humble papad topped with veggies doesn’t get soggy is a sorcery that’s beyond me.

Timings: Mon-Sun. 11am-10:45pm. 

Price: ₹1,700 for two.

Address: G 445 Block I, Sikar Road Road No. 12 VKI, Jaipur, Rajasthan 302013

What is it: A restaurant inside an 18th-century garden with a pale view of the Aravalli hills.

Why we love it: Lovingly dubbed OUT by locals, this restaurant’s one of the best places for outdoor dining in the city. Much of the seating’s in the garden, by the fountains, but you could also sit indoors, inside a very quintessentially Jaipur-esque blue and white room, called the Neela Palace. The menu’s mainly Indian, but they’ve got some basic continental classics – though we recommend ordering the Rajasthani and Mughlai dishes because that’s what they do best. Their mutton chapli kebab and laal maans (a Rajasthani classic, if you haven’t figured that out) are especially excellent. The lighting’s dim, the seating feels intimate, service is excellent, and eating while looking out at the hills on a clear evening makes for an especially memorable dinner.

Time Out tip: If you go on a weekend, you might be able to catch a live Sufi band.

Timings: Mon-Sun. Noon-midnight.

Price: ₹3,000 for two, without alcohol.

Address: Vidyadhar ji ka Bagh, Ghat Ki Guni, Jaipur, Rajasthan 302003.

What is it: An elevated all-vegetarian restaurant housed inside a 19th-century haveli sitting square in the middle of Jaipur’s Johri Bazaar.

Why we love it: The Johri shows you a fine time, courtesy bloody good cocktails and plates that comfort you and pique your curiosity all at once. It’s a bit of fusion – the seekh kebab has peas, yes, but also edamame; the humble aloo tikki’s swapped out for a Rajasthani desert bean called sangri, and there’s no paneer tikka in sight because it’s been replaced by a smoked burrata creation. The soya keema baati comes very close to the real mutton deal, too. Drinks are great as well. Mind you, tables here are by reservation only.

Timings: Mon-Sun. 1pm-5pm and 7pm-11.30pm.

Price: ₹2,000 for two without alcohol.

Address: 3950, MSB Ka Rasta, Johri Bazaar, Ghat Darwaza, Jaipur, Rajasthan 302003.

What is it: Touted as Jaipur’s best chole tikki experience housed in the buzzing streets of Johri Bazaar.

Why we love it: At Sharma’s, sizzling tikkis fly off the kadhai every 30 seconds. Picture this – it is 45 degrees outside, you’re a mush, and yet, you swarm around the humongous pan from which wafts of heat and fried potato hit you in the face. Then comes the first bite of the tikki and you know it’s all worth it. The potato patty is so crispy you’ll hear the crackle from inches away, and when doused in their spicy chickpea curry, coriander and tamarind chutneys, it makes for a flavour bomb of a mouthful that gives every chaat you’ve ever had a run for its money.

Timings: Mon-Sun. 3pm-10pm.

Price: ₹200 for two.

Address: MSB Ka Rasta, Johri Bazaar, Pink City, Jaipur, Rajasthan 302003.

What is it: One of Jaipur’s most hip drink destinations with potions and plates inspired by the Pink City, and a rare new-age entry on this list

Why we love it: Native just gets the vibe right – tawny tones, trippy music, dim-lit bar, tightly packed seats with a banging view of the bartenders’ theatricals, quick service, and mighty fine drinks. Of the signature cocktails, the Jodhpur ft smoky tequila, cumin and the electric mathania chilli syrup – a hallmark of Rajasthan’s spice – known for its intense red colour, is a cult favourite. There’s also the tangy Picklers Prescription whipped up from gin and apricot. What’s more? Chai, coffee, caramel, chamomile, coconut infused cocktails, and classics made to your liking for the non-experimental lot. Their house-made banana chips with pineapple salsa will make you rethink all the bar nibbles you’ve ever had.

Timings: Mon-Sun. 5.30pm-midnight.

Price: ₹2,500 for two.

Address: Hotel Pearl Palace, 51 Hathroi Fort, Hari Kishan Somani Marg, Ajmer Road, Jaipur, Rajasthan 302001.

What is it: A sweet shop in the old city serving up Rajasthani desserts since 1966.

Why we love it: Because of the pheeni! It’s divine. Pheeni is a flaky dessert made of deep fried hair-thin strands of flour. Traditionally gifted to friends and family during the kite festival in January, it’s best had with warm milk infused with saffron. And then there’s the on-the-go, standing-outside-the-shop way of eating it: a whole nest of pheeni dipped in piping hot sugar syrup topped with pistachios is handed out to you. Yes, it will get messy. And yes, you will get side eyes should you look for a spoon.

Timings: Mon-Sun. 8am-9pm. 

Price: ₹200 for two.

Address: 25-27, Ghee Walon Ka Rasta, Johri Bazaar, Pink City, Jaipur. 

What is it: An exploration of Rajasthan’s indigenous ingredients and age-old cooking techniques, atop the Jaipur City Palace. 

Why we love it: You get to dine like the royals! Sarvato refers to the building’s square form, which was used as a hall for a private audience. Now, a member of the Relais & Châteaux group, it’s where a xi-course degustation menu takes you through the indigenous and seasonal recipes of Rajasthan, approved by the royal courts and the local communities. The Raj Kachori comes with a wild cucumber chutney, beans like sangri and gawar phali make for kebabs and snacks, the protein police would appreciate the Jodhpuri chakki ki sabzi made of seitan, and come dessert, pepper dusted crisp with green pepper ice cream seals the deal.

Time Out tip: Cocktail connoisseurs would appreciate their drinks: think local ingredients such as pickled mango, scented vetiver grass, wild honey, and black pepper.

Timings: Mon-Sun. 7:30pm - 12:30am. (Only open from September-March.) 

Price: ₹1,000 for two.

Address: Tulsi Marg, Gangori Bazaar, J.D.A. Market, Kanwar Nagar, Jaipur, Rajasthan 302002.

What is it: A tea-stall inspired cafe where fab food and a banger playlist set the tone.

Why we love it: Tapri is the ultimate breakfast experience in Jaipur. Theth chai, poha, idli platter, tadka maggi, paninis – they’ve got it all, including some more funky items, like a pesto maggi and a khakhra pizza. They’ve also got the concept store Ladu at the C-Scheme branch that sells indie ware like apparel, accessories, stationery, tableware, and more.

Time Out tip: Early morning visits to the C-Scheme outlet’s terrace will reward you with a view of the sunrise.

Timings: Mon-Sun. 7:30am - 10:00pm.

Price: ₹1,000 for two.

Address: Multiple outlets: C-Scheme, Lal Kothi, Marriott Hotel Ashram Marg.