Bombil

Bombil, though of course known for its fish thalis, doesn’t immediately strike you as one if you’re going by general ambience. The modest-sized joint in Goa’s capital, Panaji, welcomes a steady stream of locals, students, tourists and office-goers alike, who know (or have heard, rightly) that the food talks louder than décor. Chef-owner Joseph Dias (who goes by Jo) conceived Bombil as a tribute to the no-frills family haunts he grew up with, and it shows: the interiors are playful but pared back, featuring Mario Miranda-style artefacts, murals of local fishing hamlets, and a corner beside a large glass window.

The menu places fish front and centre, and the item that everyone usually gets is the Pischef Thali – a culinary roll-call of Goa’s coastline. There’s bangda (mackerel) fry, korbot (crab) curry, prawns galmo chops, tishre sukhe (clams cooked dry with coconut), and dry bombil salad, each bursting with distinct personality. Side dishes like solkadhi, house-made pickles, crushed poppadoms and even a macaroni soup round out the platter, nudging along the palate in a transition from spice to sweetness. If you’re looking to go all-out, Bombil’s got you – the menu’s got plenty of other options, including special thalis that highlight prawn, kingfish, barramundi, and even Goan sausage. A banger add-on is to be found in the Goan Chorizo Pulao – a sleeper hit worth getting even if you’re struggling to finish the thali. 

The setting itself is simple. No air-conditioning, because it’s cool enough inside for fans to do the job, and simply set tables minus the fancy table settings. Service is friendly but brisk (they have to be during the lunch rush), so go early, ideally just when they open, to avoid the clamour of the regulars. If you don’t manage to beat the rush, you can easily expect a 20-30-minute wait time, since they don’t take bookings and seats fill fast. What’s particularly great about Bombil is they love to feed, so don’t feel shy about asking for seconds.