Chef Kunal Kapur’s guide to the best no-nonsense food joints in India

The Amritsari kulcha was a sort of watershed moment for Kunal, I gather. He tasted his first proper one here about 15 years ago. Before that he’d been making his own version inside five-star kitchens. ‘I thought we were doing it right,’ he protests bashfully. ‘Then I ate one here and realised…damn, it’s a totally different game.’ 

At Kulcha Land, the kulcha’s worshippable. Aloo, paneer, or masala – whatever. The flatbread (an invention dated to 14,500 years ago, by the way) inspires queues that begin in the morning. Kunal reckons it’s because of the unique way they cook them. ‘That crust and crunch is only possible because they cook it twice in the tandoor. First at a high temperature, then they rest it, and cook it again at a lower temperature. So much effort goes into that one thing,’ he says. All he asks is that you pair it with a glass of lassi. 

Price: ₹200 for two

Address: DISTT Shopping Complex, opposite M K Hotel Center, B Block, Ranjit Avenue, Amritsar 143001

Timings: 9:30 am-6 pm. Daily. 

‘The place isn’t fancy at all,’ Kunal says. Those words, as always, are a sort of sheepish preface for what’s inevitably going to come next: that the food’s absolutely banger. ‘It’s a tiny establishment, run by two brothers, who’re probably in their 70s right now. But what food!’

The menu’s not traditionally Bengali but, over the years, has become a part of Kolkata’s everyday eating. The deem torka’s a case in point – a Kolkata-born take on anda tadka, served with a roomali roti. 

‘Punjabi dhabas came here along with Punjabi migrants, and over time those flavours have become a part of the city,’ Kunal says. ‘Even something like kosha mangsho, a typical Bangla mutton curry, carries that bhuna influence.’ 

Price: ₹700 for two

Address: Gariahat Rd, Ballygunge, Kolkata 700019

Timings: Noon-10 pm. Daily. 

‘It’s literally just tables under trees,’ Kunal says. ‘You park your car, sit down, and the restaurant’s right there, no fuss.’

And it admittedly feels refreshingly solid in a city like Bengaluru, which is really coming into its own as far as an uber sophisticated drinking and dining scene is concerned. Airlines Hotel seems flatly unconcerned about the bustle. There’s no attempt to modernise or reinvent. Why? Probably because it can brag about the fact that diners don’t even need to look at the menu before placing an order. 

Kunal’s weakness is the set dosa. ‘It’s thicker and much fluffier than the typical crispy dosa most people think of. And their filter coffee’s amazing.’

Price: ₹500 for two

Address: No 4, State Bank of India Road, Shanthala Nagar, Ashok Nagar, Bengaluru 560001

Timings: 7 am-10 pm. Daily.

Kunal breaks into giggles before he even begins. ‘It’s very spicy,’ he says. ‘Even if you tell them to hold back, they most definitely will not.’

This roadside setup in Naraina can be a bit much for those easily overwhelmed by chaos. Crowds spilling onto the street, people eating in parked cars (hence a bit of a trafficky mess) and orders flying out nonstop to meet the massive demand. Nobody would partake if not for the stellar flavour. 

‘The chole is just so tasty,’ he says, adding that though the queue seems never ending, it moves pretty fast. The kulchas are crisped on a tawa, layered with chutney and toppings. The chole themselves are ‘aggressively spiced’ as per Kunal, though the boondi raita offers slight respite. 

Price: ₹200 for two

Address: E-195, Block E, Naraina Vihar, Naraina, New Delhi 110028

Timings: 10:30 am-3:30 pm. Daily. 

Another Amritsari favourite. Kunal’s Punjabi roots are showing. This time it’s a 65-year-old sweet shop that makes a fixed batch of gulab jamun every single day. That’s it. Once they’re sold out, the shop is shuttered. Goodnight. (On some days, good evening). 

The reason is strict adherence to the recipe, says Kunal. It’s apparently been passed down through generations and has exact proportions that the owner absolutely refuses to tamper with. Pastry chefs and home bakers will know that scaling up or doubling recipes where dessert’s concerned is simply not an option. It’ll ruin the whole thing. ‘He makes it, he sells it, and he goes home,’ Kunal says. ‘No repetition’. The proof’s in the pudding, which disappears into the hands of the long line of patrons.

Price: ₹300 for two

Address: Nai Sarak, Lawrence Road, Amritsar 143001

Timings: 9 am-11 pm. Daily. 

How very adorably ironic it is to learn that despite the name, there is absolutely nothing very healthy about this place. But what it does offer is a deep dive into the admittedly superb Maharashtrian snack culture: misal in multiple variations, sabudana khichdi, thalipeeth, onion bhajis, and more.

‘This one’s a true masterclass in doing very few things very well,’ Kunal says. It’s also the kind of spot he heads to when hunger pangs strike in the middle of the day. ‘It’s quick, it’s comforting, it’s deeply satisfying, but I always tend to overeat here,’ he laughs.

Price: ₹300 for two

Address: 71/ 83 Doctor Babasaheb Jaykar Marg Thakurdwar, road, Fanas Wadi, naka, Mumbai 400002

Timings: 7 am-10 pm. Wednesdays closed. 

For once you’ve got to skip the sunset cocktails at elevated shacks and head here, insists Kunal. Located somewhere between Anjuna and Vagator, Anand Seafood Bar and Restaurant’s got some of the best Goan food in the area, sans moody lighting and fancy decor. 

‘I dig honest, home-style Goan cooking,’ he says. His go-to order is the kingfish rawa fry, prawn curry rice, and spicy fish thalis made with the day’s catch. Their leppo fish and mackerel rechado are standouts too. Non-fish eaters aren’t left out either, with a solid spread of local chicken and vegetable curries, including the veg xacuti and chicken cafreal. 

Price: ₹300 for two 

Address: Chivar, Anjuna, Vagator, Goa 403509

Timings: 7–11 pm, (Wednesdays 12:30–4:30 pm). Mondays closed.