Once Upon A Time At The Bagh

Once Upon a Time at The Bagh, frankly, is Jaipur showing off. It’s Jaipur’s idea of foreplay. Actually, it’s the sort of restaurant you have to go to for the heck of it. 

Fondly referred to as just ‘The Bagh’ by locals, the restaurant’s working with a pretty simple idea: a good menu that acts like the cherry on top of on top of what’s quite obviously the showpiece, which is the venue. The restaurant squats inside the 18th-century Vidhyadhar Ji Ka Bagh, named after Jaipur’s chief architect. It’s the whole hog. You’re wowed at every instance, from the moment you walk in through the long, vast pathway, bordering stepwells, lawns, and fountains, framed with arches around the main courtyard. You’re wowed a second time when you reach the lawn, because you’re met with a spectacularly good view of the Aravali hills. The outdoor seating is place to be, obviously, with tables spaced out in a way that you can talk without being eavesdropped on, all lit with just the one candle. There’s also the fairly exquisite Neela Mahal – the indoor seating – which is a room done in blue and white, offset by chandeliers. 

I’ve blathered on enough about the decor. Let’s get on with the food. The menu pretends to be multi-cuisine but everyone knows it’s the North Indian that counts, so: creamy curries, charred tikkas, green chutney, naans that arrive quickly and disappear even faster. Crispy corn does the job of bar snack, the Shakahari Platter is a vegetarian free-for-all, and meat eaters love the Lehsuni Murgh Tikka and Kakori Seekh Kabab. The Junglee Roti is the sleeper hit – flaky, herby, begging to be dragged through dal. If you really want to play local, order the Jodhpuri Gatta Curry or the Jaipuri Aloo Pyaz (garlicky, rich, almost meaty) with the missi roti.

If you’re after a post-dinner digestive, take the narrow staircase up to the terrace for a lawn view. Maybe leave your drink at your table.