Sai Family Restaurant

You wouldn’t look twice at Sai if you were to walk by. The signboard’s handpainted, the yellow facade is plain and unadorned, and you have no idea what you’re doing in the sleepy village of Corjuem near Aldona anyway (though actually, it’s recently emerged as a popular locale among new settlers in Goa). But if you were to walk past it, locals and tourists in the know would call you an idiot. Inside, you’re met with the whir of the ceiling fans, plastic chairs scraping against the tiled floor, and the low hum of the small television set that plays only Hindi-dubbed Tamil action films. And it’s packed. Always. 

The menu shifts daily and is guided entirely by that morning’s catch and whatever catches the staff’s eye at the fish market. You could chance upon a fiery fish head curry or prawns hooman simmered in coconut and kokum, or if you’re really lucky, a perfectly crisp rava-fried chonak that arrives still crackling. You get everything neatly arranged on your thali, accompanied by two big mounds of rice, curry, clams, vegetables, and pickle, and the portions are generous. 

Given the hubbub, it’s worth noting that while the service is swift, it never feels hurried. The staff – all locals – move with the quiet choreography of familiarity, so a nod brings more curry, an empty plate warrants an immediate refill of rice, and a passing smile might get your server to convince you to get the rava-fried prawn. You ought to know that coming early is non-negotiable, and on weekends, the kitchen sometimes runs out as early as 2pm. There are no reservations, and they’re closed on Mondays. And if you’re coming, you’ll know why it’s not particularly lamentable that this isn’t an Instagrammable place – you’ll probably have licked your plate clean long before the urge to take a photo strikes.