Spice Goa

When a beloved local restaurant decides it’s going to up its game, the results can often be disastrous. But that’s not what happened at Spice Goa’s Sangolda outpost.That a humble joint which started out over 25 years ago in Karaswada has transformed into a surprisingly elegant restaurant is a journey worthy of praise in itself. But what’s exceptional is how the new outlet’s managed to retain the heart of traditional Goan cooking and present it with a sophistication rarely associated with a seafood thali. Under the stewardship of Atul and Aparna Shah, Spice Goa had already perfected the thali. The star at the new outlet is the Chonak Thali – a beautifully composed platter that captures the essence of coastal cooking. The golden rawa-fried chonak anchors the meal, flanked by prawn curry, clams, prawn kismoor, seasonal vegetables, and kokum kadhi (a lighter, tangier cousin of solkadhi). There’s a sort of assuredness that comes through with every bite. It’s something only years of repetition and consistency can deliver. 

That’s partially because Atul, with his two sons Rohan and Yash, runs a tight ship. The masalas are made by Aparna and sent to both outlets, which makes sure of the fact that there’s no quality mismatch. Atul himself makes a trip to the fish market every morning and is hugely popular among the local fishermen, from whom he buys his daily loot. He’s known in local circles for being stringent about checking each piece of fish for freshness before he serves it on a plate. And so the fish thali tastes, with no pretence, like it evidently did emerge from a family-run kitchen – just one with better lighting and tableware.The restaurant now attracts a healthy mix of both locals and new settlers, helped along by the fact that parking is ample – a plus seldom seen on Goa’s thali scene (most joints are tiny, obscure, or located at busy junctions). Service is attentive and briskly warm, and the restaurant itself steers clear of gimmicky props or loud music. But once a week, though, they allow a rare concession – live music that makes lunch a lively affair on Sundays.