I visited Goa's most underrated wildlife sanctuary, and it was nothing like I expected

Spend enough time hopping through the Arambol–Anjuna–Panjim–Chapora–Calangute circuit and chances are your wallet will be empty before you know it. No lies – they’re great for a quick, party-fuelled getaway, but too much and it starts feeling like self-sabotage, especially for the folks who want to see a bit of nature. 

Mhadei’s only 70km from most of North Goa’s most famous beaches. We rented a car (skip the scooty in the monsoon for God’s sake or risk the rain gods at your own peril) and headed towards Sattari. The Western Ghats have a looming presence – I could feel them far before we entered. Once through the Mhadei Sanctuary gates (free entry!), all I could see were lush jungles stretching as far as the eye could see.

Heads up – if you arrive at Mhadei in the earlier hours of the morning, you can get away with a half-day trek and return to your stay in a timely fashion, but anything after noon will call for a night’s stay. There are indeed ample accommodation options around the forest, most cloistered around Valpoi. During the monsoon, their prices sink delectably low.

Trekking trails begin from Valpoi or Keri and end near Talavache, Vagheri, or Sonsogod. They're beginner-friendly. But monsoon means crossing more than one thick, fast-running stream. Pack a raincoat, grippy trekking boots, a reusable water bottle, and a change of clothes. Overall, keep it light because relentless rain will drench your belongings. Umbrellas are practically useless, too.

Our small batch of six, along with a local guide, comfortably completed the trail in half a day. Along the way, I spotted countless birds, insects, and saffron-coloured flowers blooming on indigenous Arjun trees. I even collected a few cute-looking leaves to press into my scrapbook. 

Tigers and panthers, however, remained elusive – we were told the best months to see them are March through June. 

Most hikes culminate at a waterfall. Mine ended at the spectacular Shivaling Waterfall, named after the cylindrical rock formation over which the water cascades, resembling milk flowing over a Shivling. The water pool around it isn't deep enough for a swim, but you can walk across to a small cave tucked behind the falls. That's where I found the best seat: watching a roaring curtain of water without getting directly pummelled by it.

You can get a trek booked with local vendors, quite active on Instagram.

Come monsoon, Goan rivers transform into white-water rafting destinations, an adventure you won't find year-round. I gave it a skip. And regretted it later.

Most operators are based around Valpoi, where the rapids are graded Class II and III, making them ideal for both beginners and veterans chasing a dauntless run.

A chilled glass of feni, served neat with a slice of lime, local spices, and a mildly spicy green chilli. That's the Mhadei way of calling it a day.

Our guide happily poured us glasses of cashew feni, or Urrak, after the trek. Many local guides do the same. If you feel adventurous enough, ask for the flaming version, where the feni is briefly set on fire right before you sip it.

One warning: don't let the flame linger. It'll warm both the glass and the feni enough to singe your lips.

Mhadei Wildlife Sanctuary is one of those places that doesn't accidentally end up on your itinerary. You have to seek it out.

Named after the Mhadei River, the sanctuary was officially notified only in 1999, making it one of Goa's newer nature spots that's still quietly building a reputation. Geographically, it sits closer to North Goa, but spiritually, it feels unmistakably southern. 

The sanctuary’s admittedly known for its resident Bengal tigers, although sightings are rare, as I mentioned above. Every local I spoke to had endless stories of encounters. Not just with tigers, but also with Indian bison, leopards, and even black panthers. The forests shelter over 250 bird species, including hornbills, Malabar parrots, and Nilgiris, while the sanctuary wraps itself around Goa's highest peaks: Vagheri Hills and Chorla Ghats.

Fun fact: if snakes fascinate you, this is one of the few places in India where you could potentially spot all of the country's Big Four venomous snakes: the Indian krait, Russell's viper, saw-scaled viper, and the spectacled cobra.

Despite seeing relatively few tourists, Mhadei is anything but sleepy. Forests and wildlife keep the sanctuary up and alive all year round. It's easy to explore, immensely rewarding during the monsoon, and still refreshingly under the radar.

Nearest airports: Manohar International Airport (60 km) and Dabolim Airport (75 km)

Nearest railway station: Madgaon Junction Railway Station (60 km) 

Entry: Free (additional charges for activities) 

Best time to visit: Monsoon (June to September) 

Preferred duration: Half a day to one night's stay 

Address: Nagargaon, Kodal, Goa, 403506