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How many Manx folk does it take to change a lightbulb? None, because they don't like change. It's a local joke, and one that sums up this self-governed island sitting in the Irish Sea. It's home to the oldest-operating horse-drawn tram in the world and locals use the space public transport that their Victorian ancestors had. It's a land of fairies, tailless cats, beautiful scenery, oddities and contradictions that soon get under your skin.
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