Loads of hotels claim to offer something special. An out-of-the-ordinary experience that makes other properties look shamefully mundane by comparison. The Shinmonzen is a rare example of somewhere that does this and then coolly delivers. It has unique and culturally enriching experiences to share. It is, in fact, a bit of a privilege to stay within its wooden walls. An inn, built on the Shirakawa River in Kyoto’s eye-wateringly historic Gion neighborhood, the Shinmonzen is, from the moment you enter until you (are made to) leave, a beautiful and humbling experience.
Gion is Kyoto’s (and one of Japan’s) most well-known urban areas. A protected neighbourhood, thanks to its historical significance, it’s a grid of lantern-lit streets, criss-crossed by canals. Its buildings, many of which are uncompromisingly exclusive restaurants, beautiful bars and traditional businesses, are all almost entirely wooden. The Shinmonzen is right in the middle of it, and unlike a lot of hotels that can sometimes spoil a neighbourhood or look galumphingly conspicuous, it feels 100 percent part of its surroundings. This is probably a lot to do with its designer: the world-famous architect Tadao Ando.
Rooms (there are just nine of them) are airy and confidently simplistic, with lots of pale wood, unblemished white surfaces and plenty of tangibly Scandi touches. Perhaps more than any other hotel of its type, the Shinmonzen rooms do feel like comfortable and well-appointed homes, with inviting sofas, stylish armchairs and perhaps the coolest television stand I’ve ever seen in my life. The bathrooms, which feature marble walls, bespoke organic toiletries and stunning free-standing tubs, And as you’d expect in Japan, there’s an incredibly charming set of pyjamas waiting for you after turndown service (Shinmonzen branded, naturally). The urge to steal these will be overwhelming, but you must resist.
Jean-Georges Vongerichten presides over a kitchen that turns out fine-dining French cuisine, which is a great option for anyone without time to explore the city. We also had our Japanese-style breakfast served for us on our room’s balcony, overlooking the babbling brook that runs past the Shinmonzen. As far as holiday-defining experiences go, this one was up there for me. Also extra points for the extremely chilled out and hands-off staff who (among loads of other thigs) managed to deliver the 10am breakfast at the exact moment the clock turned 10am. Conincidence or supernaturally efficient Japanese hospitality? I'm saying the latter.
There are a few small strange extroverted design touches throughout the hotel remind you that you’re not actually staying in a 19th-century residence - fairly bling-looking, crystalline doorknobs and taps and incongruously nightclubby art on the wall, for example. But by and large the Shinmonzen is an immersive and enchanting experience, entirely befitting such a significant location.
Neighbourhood
Gion, in Kyoto’s Higashiyama Ward, is one of Japan’s most well-known and significant areas. Boasting more wooden buildings than anywhere else in the country (American bombing never touched Kyoto), the former imperial capital offers a glimpse of how much of Japan would have looked before the 20th century. Unfortunately, due to Japan’s rise as a destination for global tourism, parts of Higashiyama can become unpleasantly crowded. Our advice: visit during off-peak times of year, and avoid the obvious areas. Gion has plenty of quiet backstreets and secluded corners to discover.
Nearby
Rock Bar Crunch Possibly the conceptual opposite of the Shinmonzen - a windowless heavy metal boozer, hidden on the first floor of a block of flats. A friendly owner and a guaranteed good time.
Gion Duck Noodles A fairly anonymous-looking place, with a tell-tale queue nearly always snaking its way out the door. Freshly made ramen, with (you guessed it) tender duck is the specialty.
SFERE Contemporary crafts, from the city of Kyoto, presented in a stylish, minimal setting. How's it prounounced? Not sure. Perfect for a top-tier keepsake or a present for the design-minded person in your life.
Time Out tip
Sagi-san the cormorant is a kind of hotel mascot and will hang out outside your room if you’re lucky.