Evelyn's Cafe and Bar

Mughli owners the canny Zanna Group have dialled up everything that was good about previous occupant, the oddly-themed Superstore, and binned everything that wasn’t. They’ve lightened up this grand space on Tib Street, making the most of those enormous windows, and installed a profusion of plants. Chef Byron Mose, previously at the Hilton on Deansgate, has put together a tempting menu that feels like a more refined take on Superstore’s globe-trotting, eclectic food. There’s plenty here for people who value clever combinations, vivid flavours and dishes where the vegetables take centre stage – a rarity in what is fast becoming the dude food capital of the North.

All, however, is not what it seems. Hiding among the salads, a Spartan-sounding plate of chicken, brown rice and vegetables turns out to be a decadent affair involving crackly chicken skin, sweet tarragon-infused slaw and a just-set fried egg. Lamb meatballs are delicately spiced, aubergines are carmelised to lusciousness and some ordered-as-an-afterthought corn fritters are light little summer bombs – and reappear on the breakfast menu with roasted tomatoes and cream cheese. We couldn’t find a single thing to fault: apple crumble and custard is served family-style at the table, and even the drinks show careful consideration. When the menu offers fresh lemongrass infusions, ‘dirty’ chai made with coffee instead of tea and bellinis at brunch, we’d be fools to refuse the chance to deviate from the everyday. Hooray for Evelyn (whoever she is) – long may she reign.