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I’ve never been to a European palazzo, but the stately black door and sheer curtains withholding the interiors of La Panthera from me might be a portal to one. It’s an unforgivable cliché to say you’ve found a slice of Italy or Spain in Mumbai, but you’re going to have to forgive me. The grand arches, coffered ceilings, post-Renaissance mural and bronze valances have loosened my tongue.
Inside, the menu asks (nudges) me to pair my cocktail with suggested food selections. The choosing’s been tastefully done for me, and it’s a relief. Not too long after, a vibrant Steak Tartare arrives arm-in-arm with a Negroni. The tartare is full-bodied and in more than acceptable quantity – large morsels of meat with crisp, flaky pastry held firmly in place. The drink is crystal clear, with a crisp, icy leaf half-submerged within.
Venturing guiltily off-grid and out of the menu’s polite bounds, a Cacio e Pepe has been eaten alongside the outlet’s painkiller offering – the citrusy, glowy Rogue Panther, which arrives in a round lowball with a dunked and roasted slice of pineapple. We’re testing the waters when it comes to Italian-tropical crossroads, here, please. The drink feels no different from the usual gold standard, except for a roasted undertone. The creamy pasta could have been switched out for a more audacious tapa. I decide to return to the menu suggestions with my tail between my legs.
After the two heavy meal choices, it’s time for an Aperol Spritz to aid the aperitif effect. Once again, it arrives clear, with cranberry-rosemary infusions. The jiggly, eggless blueberry melon, by the way, is a great contrast to the otherwise standard dessert fare. Its creamy coconut yogurt, if packaged and sold, could be the potential next big thing.
Alas (but not really), I walk out of La Panthera with no room for another morsel or sip. Here’s the deal: the food will fill you up. The drinks will urge you to stay until last call. But do not compromise on either. Bring your friends, drag your family, pack what’s left over. You’ll need more than one visit to imbibe the entire culinary range. If nothing else, I’m going to start telling people I was hosted for a meal at a European palazzo.
Time Out tip: It’s worth it to plan cocktail hour alongside a meal.